Colin de Tonnac, Watchmaker, CEO and Founder at Semper & Adhuc (Labouheyre, France)
December 5, 2022
Photography by Bryan Bedder
The Horologist's Loupe
The Horological Society of New York's newsletter (and today blog!) began publishing in 1936, and is one of the oldest continuously running horological publications in the world.
Colin de Tonnac, Watchmaker, CEO and Founder at Semper & Adhuc (Labouheyre, France)
December 5, 2022
Photography by Bryan Bedder
Joshua Shapiro, CEO J.N. Shapiro Watches LLC (Los Angeles, California)
January 9, 2023
American watchmaking had a meteoric rise in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The U.S. made millions of highly precise and beautiful timepieces. The means of producing these timepieces heavily influenced manufacturing techniques within watchmaking and industry at large. However, within a relatively short time period after World War II, mechanical movement watch companies would disappear completely from America. Now the U.S. is experiencing a resurgence of American watchmaking.
At the January 2023 lecture of the Horological Society of New York, Joshua Shapiro, CEO of J.N. Shapiro Watches LLC, will explore the rise of American watchmaking, the factors behind its demise, and lastly, share the exciting horology currently happening in the U.S.
READ THE FULL STORY HERE!
Doors open at 6PM ET, lecture to begin at 7PM ET. RSVP is required.
The lecture video will be available to members immediately, and to the general public following a two-month delay.
This post is the second in a new series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by HSNY’s librarian, Miranda Marraccini. Find the first post here.
Our current exhibit at HSNY is "Watches from the James Arthur Collection,” which is open to the public by appointment through Winter 2023. The exhibit showcases 14 items from the collection of James Arthur (1842-1930), an immigrant, mechanic, businessman, and inveterate tinkerer who never stopped building watches and clocks.
James Arthur also published Time and its Measurement in 1909, a book reprinted from a series of articles he wrote for the magazine Popular Mechanics. The heavily illustrated volume is brief (only 64 pages) but wide-ranging, covering such topics as Chinese and Japanese methods of telling time, how pendulums work, the Zodiac, and Arthur’s modest proposal to “throw local time out totally and establish one, invariable, universal time.” We have the book in our library at HSNY.
A caption below a picture of Arthur on the frontispiece of his book (shown at left) calls him “an enthusiastic scientist, a successful inventor and extensive traveler” with “the finest collection in the world” numbering over 1500 timepieces. He is “a pleasing exception to the average business man” because of his appetite for scientific study and research. Although the caption claims to have been written by the editor of Popular Mechanics, Henry Haven Windsor, it no doubt reflects the image Arthur wanted to project: not only a successful entrepreneur, but also a learned one, interested in new science and exciting innovation. He was an exception to the usual collector type, too, since he was more interested in mechanical detail than a watch’s purported value or rarity. He liked to alter his watches and take them apart to display how they worked.
Arthur’s book demonstrates, more than anything, that he viewed himself as a horologist of the people, popular in the broadest sense. Popular Mechanics had a tagline at the time, emblazoned on the front page of each issue: “written so you can understand it.” In his series of articles, which became the book, Arthur fully embraces this ideal of accessibility. He writes familiarly, in the second person, addressing “you” as he carefully explains the history and mechanics of timekeeping. He makes it clear that he’s open to exploration and critique. For instance when trying to understand a particular feature of ancient water clocks, he writes, quite modestly: “I venture an explanation and hope the reader can do better, as we are all of a family and there is no jealousy” (19). Arthur even draws some of the illustrations himself, in an attempt to “make it plain” how a clock’s movement actually works (see image at left). All readers, including children, are welcome to learn and even speculate together.
Time and its Measurement also shows that Arthur couldn’t help talking about his tinkering. He writes about the “considerable number” of clocks he has built, “all for experimental purposes” (40). For example, he uses different jewels for bearings: “in one clock I used agates,” and in another, “running thirteen months with one winding, I used pallets jeweled with diamonds” (40). Arthur includes images, too, of clocks he designed, including the one at right ornamented with a figure of a bull. There’s no particular reason to include this information – Arthur is an enthusiastic amateur, and he wants his readers to feel that they are too.
James Arthur donated his collection to New York University in 1925, along with a generous cash bequest meant to preserve it intact as a museum. That’s not what happened, although the full story is beyond the scope of this article. Arthur’s collection lingered, suffered neglect, and was eventually divided and sold to different entities.¹ The watches we have in the exhibit now belong to the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors.
Despite the disappointing fate of his collection of clocks and watches, Arthur’s legacy lives on in multiple ways. As part of his endowment, Arthur stipulated that a themed lecture should be held every year on the topic of Time and its Mysteries. In the HSNY library, we have several of these lectures in print form, which include titles like “On the Lifetime of a Galaxy” and “The Geologic Records of Time.” The speakers have often taken on broadly philosophical topics, in keeping with Arthur’s chronic curiosity and sense of intellectual exploration. You can watch the 59th (and most recent) James Arthur lecture here.
HSNY’s permanent collection also includes one of Arthur’s tall case clocks, recently donated by our Exhibit Curator, Bob Frishman. Although it was an antique when he bought it, Arthur altered this clock to his particular specifications, noting its unusual thick ceramic dial, “just like a dinner plate.” At left is an image of the clock from a chronicle of the collection published in 1932 called The Lure of the Clock, and at right, a picture of the clock as it stands in our library today. It’s still keeping good time.
Toward the end of his book Time and its Measurement, Arthur laments the limited space he has left to discuss timekeeping. “Those wishing to follow up the subject would require a large ‘horological library’,” he explains. A “five-foot shelf would be altogether too short to hold the books” (42). We have around 800 feet of bookshelves at HSNY, and more archival material in our storage rooms. But it’s still never enough, and like Arthur, we’re always continuing to tinker with and expand our collection for enthusiasts and students of all kinds.
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¹ For more about Arthur’s legacy and how his collection was eventually split up, see Jeanne Schinto’s “James Arthur and His ‘Temple of Time’: A Cautionary Tale for Collector-Donors and Their Beneficiaries,” Maine Antique Digest, 2018-2019.
Dear HSNY Members & Friends,
I am honored to send you best wishes from the Horological Society of New York for the holidays and the coming New Year.
Because of your support, this past year was an eventful one for HSNY. In April, we were thrilled to celebrate our first Gala since COVID where we shared a wonderful evening and awarded $100,000 in scholarships to students entering the trade. And in November, the grand opening of HSNY’s Jost Bürgi Research Library in October was covered by The New York Times. I am most pleased to share that we have further increased our membership and the number of sponsors we are proud to be supported by. This has been the most successful year for HSNY in recent history.
This is not to say we are ready to rest on our laurels! Far from it. In previous letters I spoke about the legacy we stand steward for at HSNY, and how it can be surprisingly easy to connect to events over a century ago. This year I find myself focused on what is happening right now. I also find myself more careful than ever with the words I choose to describe the work at hand. Rather than being busy, my calendar is full. Instead of my morning filling up, my day expands. Rather than “wishing to thank you” (a personal pet peeve…) I am actively thanking you – no matter how many times you read this letter.
You have made it a year-round responsibility for us to do the most good with the support we receive. We are dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education, of course. What does that mean practically? HSNY’s primary goal for the last several years has been to do everything in our ability to support every person pursuing education in the field of watchmaking in the U.S. We are getting closer every year, and hope to reach this goal as long as possible once we do.
I said earlier that 2022 has been HSNY’s most successful year in recent history. This is in no small part because of the overwhelming support from members who enrolled when HSNY’s membership levels were introduced this year. I’ll take the opportunity to thank the following new and returning members directly for making the decision to join us this year at the Gold level. I hope that the work we are doing gives you incentive to add your name to this list for next year. You can be confident that your support will be put to good use.
Very best regards,
John Teifert
President, Horological Society of New York
LIFETIME MEMBERS
Jared Tramontano (2022)
GOLD LEVEL MEMBERS
Abhishek Krishnan
Adam Schoon
Andy Russo
Basil Wilson
BK Fulton
Cameron Weiss
Chad Rasmussen
Chan Cho Nam Caleb
Charles Wang
Chi Chan
Chretien Risley
Christopher McNew
Christopher Zhu
Dustin Calim
Dustin Tsitouris
Geoffrey Hess
Gerardo Estevez
Grace Y H Huang
H. Jane Chon
Hay Yip
Henry Kochhar
J Li
James Veall
Jhaveri Milind Harendra
John Simon Chow
Juan Fernandez SN
Julien Dath
Kevin Ohara
Kyle Chiang
Luke Senkowski
Michael T. Jewell
Morten Glud Loewe
Nathan M. Barotz
Nicholas Lai
Paul Boutros
Paul N. Morrissette
Philip Chua
Riad Edlebi
Roneel Punjabi
Scott Schenker
Sean Bedford
Shehtaaz Zaman
Ted Friedland
Ted Wu
Thomas M. Lubeck
Ting Lu
Y lai
Yusuf Abdulla Yusuf
- -
HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day.
GOLD
Abhishek Krishnan, Hong Kong
BK Fulton, VA*
Chretien Risley, NY
J Li, Australia
Kyle Chiang, MA*
Morten Glud Loewe, Hong Kong
Paul N. Morrissette, NJ
Riad Edlebi, CA
BRONZE
Adam Klein, NY
Ajay Gandhi, CA
Alexander W. Santore, NY
Bernard J. Craig, MD
Charles Patrissi, RI
Christopher Lugo, FL
Colin de Tonnac, France
Corey McCoy, CA
Edward Hillenbrand, NY
Eric J. Reyes, NC
Harrison Yelverton, VA
Hesham El-Sewify, CA
Howard C. Meyers, AZ
Jeremiah Allen, FL
Jim Crusinberry, TX
John B. Penney, CA
John Stone, OH
Joseph Soranno, CT
Kevin W. Higginbotham, DE
Masaharu Wada, Japan
Matthew A. Gregory, MA
Matthew Vandivort, NY
Michalis P. Stavrinides, FL
Miguel Kychenthal, NY
Miguel Sherlock, WA
Nirupesh Joshi, India
Richard Faron, NY
Robert Bartell Funk, III, FL
Robert Harrell, VA
Sarah (Sally) Moreland, VA
Sebastian Kirschner, Germany
Troy Odenwald, LA
William Johnson, MA
Yuehan Duan, CA
* Upgraded Membership Level
Give the gift of horology!
The Horological Society of New York is proud to introduce two brand new, limited edition items to its shop! Just in time for the holidays, HSNY has created a Lens Cloth Pocket Square ($40) and a Watchmaker's Loupe ($60), perfect for completing any watch enthusiast's arsenal of timepiece accessories.
Both items are HSNY exclusives and proceeds directly aid HSNY in its mission to advance the art and science of horology.
Jean-Christophe Sabatier, Chief Product Officer at Ulysse Nardin (Le Locle, Switzerland)
November 7, 2022
Photography by Monica Schipper
Colin de Tonnac, Watchmaker, CEO and Founder at Semper & Adhuc (Labouheyre, France)
December 5, 2022
HSNY's December 2022 lecture will take place in person at the General Society Library. Doors open at 6PM ET, lecture to begin at 7PM ET. RSVP is required.
Since the 1980s and in the general subconscious, watchmaking has been above all a Swiss affair. When we think of watches or of a watch-producing country, typical images of Lake Geneva, the Swiss flag or the snowy mountains of the Vallée de Joux immediately come to mind.
However, there is another neighboring country that produces fine timepieces as well: France.
For the final lecture of 2022, Colin de Tonnac, Watchmaker, CEO and Founder at Semper & Adhuc, will discuss the evolution of French watchmaking, focusing on events, anecdotes, innovations and flagship models that put France on the map as a serious watchmaking nation, including the revival it has experienced in recent years.
READ THE FULL STORY HERE!
The lecture video will be available to members immediately, and to the general public following a two-month delay. RSVP is required.
This post is the first in a new series written by our librarian, Miranda Marraccini.
When you visit the Horological Society of New York’s (HSNY) library in person, almost everything that you see on the shelves – books, periodicals, boxes of papers, auction catalogs – is the lifelong work of one person, Fortunat Mueller-Maerki.
Born in Switzerland in 1946, Mueller-Maerki developed a love for clocks and watches at a young age. He was living with his grandfather while he attended the University of Zurich. During this time, his grandfather inherited a 300-year-old table clock and had it restored, after which Mueller-Maerki kept it on his nightstand. It was this clock that first sparked Mueller-Maerki’s interest in horology.
He didn’t make a conscious decision to collect clocks. “I don’t know how I got to [clock] number two,” Mueller-Maerki says. “We had a few nice antique clocks in the house.” Instead, his passion developed slowly while he pursued a full life outside of horology: an exchange student program in Pennsylvania that was his first experience in the U.S., college in Switzerland, then married life in an apartment in the schoolhouse where his wife Ruth worked as a teacher.
After a three-month tour across the U.S. in a Volkswagen camper, Mueller-Maerki enrolled in the MBA program at Harvard University. He completed the degree in 1975 and began a 25-year career at a groundbreaking executive search firm, Egon Zehnder, “the only employer I ever had,” as he says. He and Ruth had three children.
After settling into his life in the U.S., Mueller-Maerki became a member of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC), and started taking technical classes in clock repair. “I wasn’t good enough to do watches,” he claims. He says he doesn’t have the coordination required for their tiny parts.
He also began to build his collection in new directions. “I have a collector’s gene in me,” he tells me. “I had dozens of clocks from all over the world.” But Mueller-Maerki, already a bibliophile, was very practical. Print publications were more affordable than watches and required less space than clocks – for him, it’s very important that “you can get more items on the shelf!”
Mueller-Maerki still collects anything and everything, printed or handwritten, that could conceivably be related to timekeeping, aiming to create “the broadest defined horological specialty library in the world.” He’s proud to have preserved materials that, most likely, no one else has thought worthy of keeping: brochures from swap meets, email newsletters, postcards, advertisements, and syllabi from watchmaking schools. These items together make up a truly unique and comprehensive archive of modern horology, which Mueller-Maerki has assembled with great care.
His library, still growing, numbered nearly 25,000 items at the time of donation, including books, journals and rare ephemera in many languages. He also created a comprehensive database and catalog of horological publications.
Throughout his life in horology, Mueller-Maerki has been a leader in the National Association for Watch and Clock Collectors, including as head of the NAWCC Library Collections Committee, NAWCC Board member, and Silver Star Fellow (their highest honor). His prolific writings about horology are an important scholarly resource, including articles for the NAWCC Bulletin on diverse topics: longcase clocks, astronomical dials, and how watches were used to identify the dead during World War I.
Horologist and longtime friend Bob Frishman writes: “The incredible study tours he led were in Europe and America, and included visits to private collections and museum storage areas where the public is not invited…His extensive contacts and friendships here and abroad provided that special access.”
Donating the library
Mueller-Maerki donated his library to HSNY with the intent to make it available to the largest number of people possible and to aid in future horological research. Over the course of the pandemic, the collection was painstakingly relocated from his house in New Jersey to New York City.
In choosing the name for the library, he decided to honor Jost Bürgi (1552-1632), a brilliant Swiss clockmaker, mathematician, and astronomer. Bürgi worked as an engineer in the court of Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II, inventing several important horological devices that allowed clocks to become much more precise. He is also one of the mathematicians credited with the discovery of logarithms.
We dedicated the library in a ceremony on October 21, 2022, unveiling a plaque with Mueller-Maerki’s likeness. Mueller-Maerki is the Librarian Emeritus and visits the collection regularly.
The building and space
When you visit, you’ll get a chance to explore the historic General Society Building in which our library is located. It was built as a boys’ school at the end of the 19th century. The building now belongs to the General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen, which was founded in 1785 and still provides free courses on topics like HVAC systems and construction project management. It’s also a frequent filming location for New York-based productions. The room that the General Society uses as a library (and that HSNY uses for monthly lectures) was originally a gym that schoolboys used for military drills.
A number of other organizations including HSNY, the Institute of Classical Architecture & Art and the New York Botanical Garden occupy offices on different floors. We’re on the fifth floor in a beautiful, 2,000-square-foot purpose-built library with grand, arched windows. It’s a great space for quiet research, watch-related events and horological community gathering!
About the librarian
As HSNY’s Librarian, I came into the picture much later, starting in July of this year. I’m a lifelong bibliophile who collected fountain pens, typewriters, and watches as a child growing up in Miami. After finishing a Ph.D., where I researched a group of women who founded their own printing press in nineteenth-century London, I spent three years as a librarian at the University of Michigan. I’m thrilled to be the steward of HSNY’s Jost Bürgi Research Library.
Fortunat Mueller-Maerki built a multilingual, time-spanning, interdisciplinary collection – one that I’ll be writing about regularly in our new series: Reading Time at HSNY. I hope that my posts will give you a tiny taste of this vast collection’s treasures. In my next installment, I’ll introduce you to James Arthur, who collected thousands of clocks and watches and tinkered his way into horological history. I’ll be covering our rare book collection century by century, and we’ll learn about celestial navigation, women in watchmaking, and what HSNY served for dessert at our gala in 1916. Whether you’re interested in visiting the library in person or just hearing about our weird, amazing, unexpected collection, please keep reading.
The Jost Bürgi Research Library Contains Over 25,000 Items Relating To Horology
The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) was founded in 1866 as a guild by watchmakers for watchmakers. One of the first initiatives agreed on was to start a library, which would include reference texts of the times. Although modest in size, the HSNY library has always been an important resource.
Today, HSNY announces a major expansion and naming of its library with the establishment of the Jost Bürgi Research Library, now one of the world’s largest horological libraries, containing over 25,000 items on all aspects of the study of time and timekeepers.
The first library of its kind in New York City, the HSNY collection still contains original texts donated by its founding members but grows exponentially with the donation of a private collection once belonging to Fortunat Mueller-Maerki (b. 1946).
A longtime bibliophile, Mueller-Maerki owned one of the largest horological libraries in private hands. He spent 30 years traveling the world and purchasing horological material including books, periodicals, audiovisual materials, rare ephemera and more.
The HSNY Library, named by Mueller-Maerki after innovative Swiss clockmaker Jost Bürgi, is a 2,000 square-foot horological oasis boasting nearly 800 linear feet of custom-built shelf space, housing (amongst other things) a rare book collection with first editions and treasures dating as far back as 1652.
The ever-growing library also features more than 7,735 antiquarian and modern books on horology, over 4,675 auction sales and trade catalogs, an extensive collection of horological periodicals comprising 2,300 publications, 6,100 academic and technical articles, 2,700 pieces of ephemera, including brochures, advertising materials, posters, and a postcard collection comprising 1,161 pieces.
“It was my hope to build a library that would one day serve the greatest number of people,” said Mueller-Maerki. “Housing it in Manhattan under the care of the Horological Society of New York is a donor’s dream come true.”
The HSNY Library is located on the fifth floor of the General Society Building on Midtown’s historic “club row”. From its double-height arched windows, patrons can enjoy views of the Harvard Club of New York City, where HSNY holds its annual Gala. The library also serves as an educational exhibits and special events space for the Society. On staff is HSNY's full-time librarian, Dr. Miranda Marraccini, ready to assist with research requests.
“After a three-year project consisting of moving, organizing and integrating the Mueller-Maerki library, the HSNY Library is now once again open to all,” said Nicholas Manousos, HSNY Executive Director. “The HSNY library represents an incredible opportunity to educate the public on the fascinating field of horology. I look forward to welcoming everyone to this beautiful space.”
The Jost Bürgi Research Library is open to the public Monday through Friday from 10 AM - 5 PM ET. All are welcome to use the library and browse the collection. Appointments are encouraged for research and can be made here. To learn about and search materials, please browse the online library catalog.
# # #
ABOUT THE HOROLOGICAL SOCIETY OF NEW YORK
Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Today, HSNY is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education. Members are a diverse mix of watchmakers, clockmakers, executives, journalists, auctioneers, historians, salespeople and collectors, reflecting the rich nature of horology in New York City and around the world.
HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day.
GOLD
Adam Schoon, PA*
Andy Russo, NY*
Basil Wilson, Bermuda
Cameron Weiss, TN
Chad Rasmussen, MN
Chan Cho Nam Caleb, Hong Kong
Charles Wang, NY
Chi Chan, NY*
Christopher McNew, NY*
Christopher Zhu, Hong Kong
Dustin Calim, CA
Geoffrey Hess, NY*
Gerardo Estevez, NY
Grace Y H Huang, Hong Kong
H. Jane Chon, NJ*
Hay Yip, Hong Kong
Henry Kochhar, NY
James Veall, NJ
Jhaveri Milind Harendra, Hong Kong
John Simon Chow, GA
Juan Fernandez SN, CA
Julien Dath, Hong Kong
Kevin Ohara, CA*
Michael T. Jewell, CO
Nathan M. Barotz, NY
Nicholas Lai, Hong Kong
Paul Boutros, NY
Roneel Punjabi, Hong Kong
Scott Schenker, WA*
Sean Bedford, England
Shehtaaz Zaman, NY
Ted Friedland, NE*
Ted Wu, NY*
Thomas M. Lubeck, NY*
Ting Lu, MA
Y lai, Hong Kong
Yusuf Abdulla Yusuf, Saudi Arabia
SILVER
Brian Robinson, NY
Brian Standig, NJ*
Steven J. Walsh, PA
Tannie Ng, Canada*
Winthrop A. Robinson, CT*
BRONZE
Aashdin Billimoria, India
Adam Gill, England
Adam Jiang, NY
Andrew Strawbridge, MA
Andrew Weissel, NC
Ayan Sarkar, NY
Brad H. Liebmann, England
Brian Janusiak, NY
Brian Kirmse, MS
Catherine Gorton, CO
Chris Min, NY
Christoffer Stigsby, NC
Christopher Albanese, CA
Christopher Haley, SD
Cody Brown, IA
Cody van Kampen, NY
Colin Duran, GA
Dan Kern, CA
Daniel Doan, CA
Daniel Josephs, NY
Daniel Lorenzo Garcia, NY
Daniel Valentino, MD
Derek Flores, CA
Devin Hedge, NC
Dickson Ly, Canada
Dong Jun Lee, NY
E. Lynch, GA
Evan Grant, CA
Gabrielle Granier, NJ
Geoffrey Knott, NY
George Moscahlades, NY
Glenn Escudero, CA
Gordon Marshall, Canada
Gregory Gorton, CO
Jack Sullivan, NY
Jacob Kuczmanski, IL
Jaipal Khaira, Canada
James F. Yonally II, CA
James Nye, England
Jani Hirvonen, CA
Jay Dutton, FL
Jayson Hamrick, WV
John Metcalfe, NY
John Selman, VA
John Steele, NY
Jonathan Betts, England
Josh Klinger, CO
Justin Clapper, NY
Kathleen Overr, CA
Kevin Toth, NC
Konstantinos Sousoulas, CT
Lionel Desai, CA
Lorin Hay, VA
Lovell Hunter, CT
Marcio Elio Manique Junior, VA
Mark A. Springer, NJ
Matthew Roberts, MI
Michael Citrano, MD
Michael Lamm, NJ
Michael Robert Thibideau, IN
Michael Yohannes, NJ
Muhammad Alam, IL
Nomee Altschul, MA
Paul J. Connery, IL
Peter Dushenski, Canada
Remy Kagan, PA
Rich Braund, GA
Robert Carroll, NJ
Ronnie Underhill, MN
Ross Berger, PA
Ryan Cheung, CA
Ryan MacInnis, CT
Sal Quinonez, MA
Simon Chmielnik, Canada
Steven Kikawa, CA
Susan Foreman, CA
Terence Chu, OR
Vincent Diaz, GA
Wesley Smith, CA
Wilfried Matthews, Switzerland
Zihuan Nie, NY
* Upgraded Membership Level
The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) announces Revolution Magazine has joined as the latest publication to offer complimentary subscriptions to HSNY members.
Beginning November 2, North America-based HSNY members who choose to opt in will receive a complimentary print subscription to Revolution Magazine for one year (five issues). HSNY international members can enjoy a complimentary one-year digital version. The offer will be available to Gold, Silver, and Bronze level members, and a subscription will be valid for one year from the opt-in date.
“Revolution Magazine presents insightful long and short format stories curated for today's sophisticated watch collector, and we are happy to be sharing our content with members of the Horological Society of New York,” said Bhanu Chopra, Editor-In-Chief for Revolution US.
View all HSNY membership benefits here and join today!
Already a member? Click here to opt in (using your HSNY membership password).
Dr. Jane Desborough, Keeper of Science Collections at the Science Museum (London, England)
October 3, 2022
HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day.
Abdul-lateef Busari, Canada
Arkin Ouchouz, England
Armen Yampolsky, CA
Chris Mathes, GA
Christian Birkeland, Norway
Daniel M. Lewis, NY
Daniel Sachs, Washington, D.C.
Eddie Johnson, NJ
Harrison Siegling, PA
Ibrahim Amusan, Nigeria
James Dawes, MI
Jason Chien, NY
Jeff Aziakou, PA
Jim Breyer, TX
Juan Pablo Abonia, OH
Julie E. Kraulis, Canada
Julie Kable, CA
Keiichiro Yumiba, CA
Kelsey Laabs, NY
L Ricks Tucker, GA
Marc Perez, NJ
Matthew Carle, VA
Nick Paik, NY
Norman Esses, NY
Otto Scholtz, CT
Pamela Cloutier, Switzerland
Ramy Rizkalla, MA
Ravi Khanna, NY
Saman M. Far, NJ
Steven Cento, CA
Steven Markle, NY
Thierry Richard, FL
Victor A. Bonadonna, NY
Exclusive Jacket & Tote Now Available, Made by The Armoury
Memberships are the foundation of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), which allow the 156-year-old organization to continue its mission of advancing the art and science of horology. In recent years, the Society has experienced tremendous membership growth, with supporters spanning all corners of the globe. In order to provide them with a more elevated experience, HSNY introduces today membership levels.
A project years in the making, HSNY’s new membership levels of Gold ($1,000), Silver ($500) and Bronze ($100) come with corresponding exclusive benefits courtesy of The Armoury.
For this new endeavor, HSNY partnered with the menswear brand to create The 44th Street Jacket exclusively for Gold members — a customized version of The Armoury’s famous City Hunter jacket. The made-to-order jacket is made from a deep green wool cloth and features a hidden watch pocket, a handy tweezer pocket and a custom label. The 44th Street Jacket is unisex and comes in all standard sizes, perfect for sporting at HSNY’s monthly lectures and special events. Gold members also receive priority access to HSNY’s annual Gala!
A Silver membership to HSNY features The 44th Street Tote, designed in a heavy-duty cotton canvas material and manufactured by The Armoury in Japan. The navy tote depicts a playful version of the iconic HSNY logo in gold, multiple pockets (perfect for carrying HSNY complimentary magazine subscriptions), and short and long straps for maximum comfort and versatility.
The Bronze level is ideal for those wishing to keep HSNY’s original offering, and comes with the Society’s famous lapel pin and complimentary subscriptions to HODINKEE, GMT, Europa Star and WatchTime magazines.
“The 44th Street Jacket and Tote are stylish additions to HSNY's membership benefits, made possible by the menswear experts at The Armoury,” said HSNY Executive Director Nicholas Manousos. “I look forward to seeing many members wearing the jacket and carrying the tote at future HSNY lectures and special events.”
“It was an honour to create these designs exclusively for the Horological Society of New York,” said Mark Cho, Founder of The Armoury. “Ever since taking my first watchmaking classes at HSNY and seeing what great contributions they make to the world of horology and watchmaking, The Armoury and I wanted to be able to support the organization in our own unique way. As a serious horology enthusiast and someone whose business serves many others in the industry, I hope these items will encourage new members to join the Society to make an even greater impact on HSNY’s mission.”
Gold, Silver and Bronze membership tiers include additional benefits which can be found here.
All membership dues are tax-deductible and all proceeds benefit HSNY in its ongoing mission which includes offering financial aid to watchmaking institutions and full-time watchmaking students in the United States. Membership dues reflect annual pricing.
Redemption
To receive a jacket or tote bag, members must opt in on HSNY’s membership plan management portal. The Armoury will contact members individually to arrange delivery (shipping and taxes apply). Only one jacket or tote bag may be redeemed per membership, regardless of plan cancellation, freeze or restart. Benefits are available only to members with active recurring memberships.
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ABOUT THE ARMOURY
The Armoury is a menswear brand that believes in design, craftsmanship and personal style. Their products are rooted in classic tailoring but with the modern man in mind. The Armoury has always been a champion of the artisan, celebrating craftsmanship and valuing the time and skill that go into making something special. It is an attitude that extends beyond clothing and into horology with much admiration for the work of watchmakers everywhere.
ABOUT THE HOROLOGICAL SOCIETY OF NEW YORK
Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Today, HSNY is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education. Members are a diverse mix of watchmakers, clockmakers, executives, journalists, auctioneers, historians, salespeople and collectors, reflecting the rich nature of horology in New York City and around the world.
Join HSNY on Monday, October 3, 2022 for a lecture on The Changing Face of Early Modern Time, by Dr. Jane Desborough, Keeper of Science Collections at the Science Museum (London, England).
HSNY's October 2022 lecture will take place in person in the General Society’s Assembly Room, located on the first floor of the building, due to a restoration project taking place in the General Society Library. Seating is limited and available via RSVP on a first-come-first-serve basis.
The lecture will also be livestreamed. RSVP is required. Doors open at 6PM ET, lecture and Zoom livestream to begin at 7PM ET.
Early modern clock and watch dials mirrored changes in the wider intellectual and cultural context of which they were inextricably a part. At the October 2022 lecture of the Horological Society of New York, Dr. Jane Desborough, Keeper of Science Collections at the Science Museum in London, will chart the significant changes that dials underwent in the period from 1550 to 1770, highlighting the many factors that eventually led to a more-or-less uniform design being adopted by 1770. This 220-year journey of development was a fascinating one in which different attributes of dial design were introduced to meet a particular user demand, such as the touch-pins which were added to help partially-sighted users and which were then discarded once alternative aids became available. It is, therefore, the discarded elements that did not secure a place on the uniform design that are the most interesting.
Multiple forms of lunar calendar and astronomical symbols, for example, were highly significant to both makers and users during the late-sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, but eventually either disappeared entirely or survived on only rare examples. Comparing dials with contemporary texts and diagrams enables us to identify the influences that led to these changes. Clock and watch makers of the past were after all inextricably part of the wider context of experiment, knowledge formation and exchange which characterised the early modern period. Highly literate, highly skilled and an integral part of wide-ranging & highly-connected networks, early modern clock and watch makers played an active role in disseminating, validating and discrediting ideas and practices. This was evident in their dial designs.
READ THE FULL STORY HERE!
RSVP is required.
Hyla Ames Bauer, Watch and Jewelry Writer (New York, New York)
September 7, 2022
The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) lecture series returned after summer break with Hyla Ames Bauer, New York-based watch and jewelry writer, lecturing on the quartz crisis that hindered the Swiss watchmaking industry.
The “Before” Times – Swiss and European Watchmaking
Bauer began the lecture with the passing down of watchmaking skills to the next generation, the unique location of the Jura Mountains that provided natural light watchmakers took advantage of due to no electricity, and the key players in the watch industry that made their unique mark: Abraham-Louis Breguet, world-renowned for inventing the tourbillon and self-winding timepieces; Louis Cartier, designer of the ‘Santos’ for his friend Alberto Santos Dumont, an air pilot who couldn’t see his pocket watch while flying; and Hans Wilsdorf, who contacted Mercedes Glietze (the first woman to successfully swim the English Channel) to back his claim that the Rolex Oyster watch was ‘The World’s First Waterproof Watch Case.’
How does a quartz watch differ from a mechanical one?
Bauer went on to explain that mechanical watches depend on outside sources of energy such as manual or automatic winding. The quartz, however, has its energy source within the watch and does not require winding by the watch wearer. Scientists Marie and Pierre Curie found that “…if a quartz crystal was hit, it turns the energy of the impact into electricity. This quality is called piezoelectric. It’s an electric charge that accumulates after some mechanical stress is applied. When a piece of quartz is compressed or bent, it generates an electric charge on its surface. It can also work the other way if a small electric charge gets on to the surface of the quartz, it will vibrate.”
For perspective, Bauer displayed a list of comparative vibrating frequencies to the quartz:
Hummingbird — 70 times/sec
Bees — Up to 230 times/sec
Tuning Forks — 256 to 512 times/sec
Quartz Watch Crystal — 32,768 times/sec
Also, due to its durability and high resistance to temperature, quartz was the perfect material to use in a watch.
Early Quartz Movements in Switzerland / The Great Fall in the 1970s
Before quartz watches, all watches were mechanical. Switzerland did make quartz movements before the Japanese development, but it did not see Japan and its new technology as a threat. The creation of the Beta 21 Movement was Switzerland’s first quartz movement and was used in the Patek Philippe Reference 3587, the Omega Electroquartz, and the Rolex Oysterquartz Ref. 5100. However, only 6,000 Beta 21 movements were made because quartz was not a priority nor a threat to the Swiss industry. It was a miscalculation with dire consequences.
In 1972, about 86,000 watches were made annually in Switzerland (with its lowest number of 30,000 in 1982). Seiko’s Astron was the first Japanese watch on the market. It was a limited edition of 200 pieces and sold extremely well. Other quartz timepieces had digital displays that had more success than analog displays due to the different functions that could occur on the wrist. By 1979, Japan’s annual watch sales surged to about 60,000 in comparison to the Swiss industry’s 30,000.
Rebuilding Swiss Watchmaking – The Long Road to Recovery
For the Swiss industry to survive, it had to either consolidate, streamline, or update the marketing strategy of the watch industry’s heritage and quality, and most importantly, find solutions for affordable Swiss watch choices. On the marketing side, Nicolas Hayek revived the Swiss watchmaking industry with the ‘Swatch’ product; and within two years, sold 2,500,000 pieces. From1983 through 1985, Swiss production numbers increased, and the industry was on the road to recovery.
HSNY thanks Hyla Ames Bauer for her fascinating lecture!
Submitted by Melody Benloss, Recording Secretary
Photography by Monica Schipper
Awards Up To $10,000 Available
The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) announces today a new financial aid initiative for watchmaking students in the U.S. — the Simon Willard Award for School Watches.
Watchmaking schools often ask their students to create a school watch before graduation, allowing students to showcase the multitude of skills learned in watchmaking school. The finished product can be the first step towards independent watchmaking — an art that preserves traditional watchmaking techniques. Making school watches is important, and HSNY wants to help motivate watchmaking students to go the extra mile in their last school project. This award is named for Simon Willard, a pioneer in establishing the American horological industry.
Willard (1753 - 1848) was an important American horologist and trailblazer in the American horological industry. The Willard family clockmaking business was among the first in the U.S., setting up shop around 1780 on Roxbury Street in Boston (later known as Washington Street). Willard’s brother Aaron settled a quarter mile away, and from the 1790s onward, the Willard family workshop built tall clocks in great numbers and performed general clock repair. In 1802, Simon Willard obtained a patent for his famous eight-day "banjo" clock, which is widely considered to be one of the most significant styles of early 19th-century American timepieces. Willard's clocks required skilled hand-craftsmanship, and their movements were outstandingly precise. His own skills were exceptional, and he was able to file cogwheels without leaving file-marks, producing mechanisms with a margin of error of just thirty seconds over the course of a month. By about 1810, both Simon and Aaron were producing clocks that were as good as those being produced in Europe.
The Simon Willard Award for School Watches is made possible by a generous donation from Samy Al Bahra, a collector of independent timepieces and a proponent of traditional watchmaking education.
“I am excited to contribute to the Horological Society of New York's educational mission and I hope the Simon Willard Award helps motivate more watchmaking students in America to take the plunge of sharing their work with the rest of the horological community,” said Samy Al Bahra.
Application Process
Any student enrolled in a full-time watchmaking school in the U.S., or who has graduated no more than one year prior to submitting their entry, is eligible for the Simon Willard Award for School Watches. The entry must be a mechanical watch or clock that was utilized as their school watch project and the applicant must certify that the entry was designed and made by themselves. As is the tradition with school watches, students should at minimum manufacture the bridges.
To apply, students should complete the form on HSNY’s website. The application period is January 1 to January 31 of every year. Selected applicants will be asked to deliver their watches to HSNY for judging by a Selection Committee comprised of a panel of experts from HSNY’s Board of Trustees and the watch collecting community. Awards will be granted to one student per watch or clock. The winner will be announced each year at HSNY’s annual Gala in April. Awards up to $10,000 are available.
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ABOUT THE HOROLOGICAL SOCIETY OF NEW YORK
Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Today, HSNY is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education. Members are a diverse mix of watchmakers, clockmakers, executives, journalists, auctioneers, historians, salespeople and collectors, reflecting the rich nature of horology in New York City and around the world. https://www.hs-ny.org
On October 21-22, the 2022 Time Symposium hosted by the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) will honor important past collectors of clocks and watches. These great collectors, including J.P. Morgan, recognized the enduring historical, technological, cultural, and aesthetic values of horology.
No previous conference has ever focused upon these collecting stars who deserve our attention, study, and everlasting gratitude. Their collections remain preserved in museums around the world or have been dispersed but are well-documented in books, pamphlets, and auction catalogues dating back to the 18th century.
The symposium programs, also of interest to scholars and students of collecting in general, will take place in mid-town Manhattan at The General Society of Mechanics & Tradesmen of the City of New York. The landmark building also is home to the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) which joins the NAWCC in presenting the event. The closing banquet will be directly across West 44th Street at the elegant Harvard Club of New York City. Eminent speakers from America, England, and Germany have been recruited; these include well-known experts and scholars Jonathan Betts and Oliver Cooke from England. Robert C. Cheney, Executive Director and Curator of the Willard House & Clock Museum, will speak about the extensive clock collection at Old Sturbridge Village which is generously underwriting his presentation.
The James Arthur Lecture, a feature of these annual NAWCC educational conferences, will be delivered by Daryn Schnipper, long-time head of Sotheby’s international watch department. Sotheby’s is the exclusive corporate sponsor of this historic event, and many great horological collections have been gaveled in its sales rooms.
The symposium’s printed program has been expanded to more than 80 pages and includes a deeply-researched annotated and illustrated listing of more than 200 watch and clock collectors from many countries and eras. Bonus sessions and tours include pre-symposium presentations honoring the late horological illustrator and animator John Redfern, a curator-led special tour of the watch collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and a post-symposium day-long field trip to the Morris Museum in nearby New Jersey that holds world-class collections of antique automata and mechanical music.
All details and registration information are at www.greathorology.com. Queries may be directed to symposium organizer Bob Frishman at bell- time@comcast.net or 978-475-5001. A limited number of free registrations are available to students and young museum professionals.
HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day.
Aja N. Colon, NY
Akshay Agarwal, NJ
Andrey Khoksi, NY
Angel J. Benjumea, PA
Armaan Narwani, AZ
Austin J. Cox, NY
Boding Zhang, SC
Bradley Sandler, CA
Chase Cantatore, NJ
Chloe Burke, NY
Chris Jones, NY
Claudio Bacinello, Canada
Dave Han, CA
David Brady, FL
David Knights, NY
Douglas Hoyt, CO
Frederic Schwandt, Luxembourg
Gabriel Paternina Vericat, CT
Gabriel Traupman, CT
Gregory Cheng, FL
Gregory Doughty, WA
Harry Nielsen, Canada
James G. Mead, NY
John Rice, NY
Jordan Sill, OH
Joshua Bostic, VA
Juan Pablo Majluf Brahim, Peru
Luis Morales, NY
Marcus Adolf, NY
Mark Everett, NM
Martin Walport, Scotland
Matthew Bennett, MA
Mawuli Dzirasa, MD
Michael Gleber, FL
Michael Lebowitz, NY
Mike Perry, NY
Mohamad Shahzwan Hj Puasa, Brunei
Phillip Ghrigsby, AL
Regula Schiess, Switzerland
Reynaldo Davila, TX
Richard Gellman, NJ
Richard Rosa, TX
Rick Ellis, TX
Ricky Zein, NY
Robert B. Miller, M.D., CA
Rohan Mankikar, NY
Samuel Kovel, NJ
Stanley Willingham, NJ
Stefano Recine, CT
Steve Murphy, NY
Sylvia Ko, Brunei
Tianchen Wang, NJ
Tim Ellenburg, FL
Tim Madge, United Kingdom
Troy McHenry, NC
Tyler Frederick, Canada
Tyler Van Leeuwen, NY
Victor Livingston, NY
Zara J. Roberts, NY