Meeting Recap: Journey Through the Secrets of Vacheron Constantin

Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin Heritage & Style Director, Geneva, Switzerland
Roger Michel, Institute for Digital Archaeology Executive Director, Oxford, United Kingdom
January 6, 2021

Video recordings of lectures are available to members immediately (using your membership password), and to the general public with a two-month delay.

For the first Horological Society of New York lecture of 2021, members were presented with a comprehensive presentation of Vacheron Constantin from Christopher Selmoni, Heritage & Style Director of Vacheron Constantin in Geneva Switzerland, and Roger Michel from the Institute for Digital Archaeology, Executive Director in Oxford, United Kingdom.

The lecture highlighted the chronology (provided by Selmoni) and the impressive historical context (provided by Michel) of the Vacheron Constantin brand.

1700s

• 1755: The origins of Vacheron Constantin and the significance of the lever escapement by Thomas Mudge

1800s

• 1806: First chiming watches

• 1812: Ladies quarter repeater

• 1817: First commercial exchange with USA

• 1822: Development of decorative crafts

• 1827: First Grand Sonnerie

• 1839: The Pantograph for calibers — Georges Auguste Leschot (1800 - 1884)

• 1846: Experiments in the field of protection against magnetism

• 1862: Research and development in the field of non-magnetic materials

• 1880: The iconic Maltese cross design

• 1885: Balance wheel, hairspring, anchor and anchor wheel in palladium and bronze

• 1889: Presentation of the first known Vacheron Constantin wristwatch at the Universal Exhibition of 1889 in Paris

1900s

• 1904: Early Aviator’s Watch

• 1912: Early Tonneau shape wristwatch demonstrated the creativity and daring with shapes

• 1918: Collaboration with the US Corp of Engineers and the bespoke pocket watch of James W. Packard

• 1921: Samuel Parkes Cadman - the owner of two Historiques American 1921

• 1925: Partnership with Verger Freres in Paris and the influence of Japanese design on the Art Deco timekeepers

• 1928: The Henry Graves Tourbillon Chronometer and The Boisrouvray

• 1929: The King Fouad timepiece presented as a gift to King Fouad I of Egypt

• 1932: The first ‘Cottier’ World Time system and the introduction of the Platinum Ultra-Thin Pocket Watch

• 1936 - 1940: The ‘Don Pancho’ Story — Grand complication wristwatch with minute repeater and 31-days retrograde calendar

• 1938: Measured the water speed record via the contraleague electric module with a mechanical timing machine and the collaboration with Alcan to create the Aluminium Pocket Watch Ref. 4348

• 1940s: Introduced experimental designs such as the influence of aerodynamics

• 1944: Deck watch aboard The HMS Belfast and D-Day

• 1946: The King Farouk timepiece (created in 1937) was a major grand complication with 820 components and 13 hands

• 1950s: ‘The Future is Now!’ was exemplified by the Butterfly timepiece

• 1955: Vacheron Constantin celebrates 200 years

• 1972: Debut of the Trapeze model and its variations

• 1975: The Reference 2215 in Steel

• 1977: The ‘222’ Collection designed by Jörg Hysek

• 1979: ‘Kallista’ 140 Carats wristwatch

HSNY thanks Christian Selmoni and Roger Michel for their fascinating lecture!

Submitted by Melody Benloss, Recording Secretary & Associate Librarian

HSNY Welcomes Three New Trustees

New York City - January 19, 2021

The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) welcomes today three new members to its Board of Trustees. Eric Ku, William (Bill) Buchalter, and Briana Le round out the 2021 decision-making branch of the Society as Karen Ripley and Kiran Shekar fulfill their five-year term limits. 

Eric Ku is an internationally recognized expert in vintage and contemporary watches. In 2005, he launched the website 10 Past Ten, specializing in the sale of fine and rare vintage Rolex watches. His interest in the scholarship of vintage Rolex led him to acquire the Vintage Rolex Forum in 2013. Vintage Rolex Forum has been the epicenter of scholarly discussion about all topics relating to vintage Rolex since its inception in 1999. In 2016, he co-founded Los Angeles Watchworks, a business specializing in the service and restoration of vintage and modern timepieces. Ku’s newest venture is Loupe This, a watch auction platform that is launching in early 2021. A member of the GPHG Academy, Ku has served on the jury twice, where he and fellow jurors have been responsible for recognizing achievements and innovation in watchmaking. Ku completed his undergraduate studies at the University of California, Berkeley and has resided in the San Francisco Bay Area since 1997.    

William (Bill) Buchalter is an entrepreneur and watch collector. His business background includes 20 years in the securities business from which he retired in the early 2000s. At that time, he was responsible for implementing firm strategy in the western United States covering more than $120 billion in client assets and creating the Private Wealth Management business of Prudential Securities. 

Retirement wasn’t particularly enjoyable, so he started Capital Growth Properties which later merged with The Buchalter Companies - his family’s real estate development company - to create Capital Growth Buchalter, which he owns and operates today with one of his brothers. He invests in a wide range of ventures including areas such as Banking, FinTech, Biotech, Oil and Gas and Distilled Spirits. He and his wife have a number of philanthropic interests, most of which have a strong affiliation with education, mentorship, and medical research.

Buchalter has collected watches for 30 years and is a lifetime student of horology. His collection includes a variety of makers and themes. Through being part of the collecting community, Buchalter joined HSNY and is looking forward to helping the Society further develop its place in horological history. He and his wife have five children, four grandchildren, and two golden retrievers named Lucy and Ethel. In addition to horology, Buchalter is an avid golfer, amateur writer, and college football fan. 

Briana Le graduated with an honors degree in Marketing Management and Finance from California State University. She previously worked in the field of marketing in various multifaceted industries such as Safeway Inc., Topcon Corporation, and Z-Line Design Inc. After 12 years in the corporate world, she left the desk life behind to pursue her dream of becoming a watchmaker.

After studying for 3,000 hours, Le graduated from a Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program (WOSTEP) partnership school and has since become a Freeman of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers. She is a practicing watchmaker in the San Francisco Bay Area and apprenticing with the noted horologist David Walter of Santa Barbara. Le is currently working under Walter’s guidance to make a watchmaker’s regulator clock and complete her first wristwatch. 

She has been teaching watchmaking classes for HSNY since 2016 alongside Vincent Robert, founder of Etablee and HSNY Director of Traveling Education. Over the past four years, Le has worked closely with the HSNY team to bring watchmaking education to new audiences in Seattle, San Francisco, Texas, the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) and Google.

HSNY Welcomes New Sponsors in 2021

New York City - January 11, 2021

It’s the year of more for the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), America’s oldest watchmaking guild, founded in 1866. More scholarships, more lecture attendees, and now, more sponsors. HSNY welcomes today three sponsors who are helping the nonprofit advance the art and science of horology – Collective Horology, Ulysse Nardin, and Hamilton Jewelers.

HSNY’s sponsorship banner expands with top names whose support will directly help fund the Society’s multiple financial aid opportunities in the United States, continue monthly lectures via Zoom, and further develop Virtual Horological Tutoring classes and other educational initiatives. 

HSNY welcomes Collective Horology, Ulysse Nardin, and Hamilton Jewelers and thanks them for their incredible support!

About Collective Horology 

Collective Horology™ is a community of enthusiasts who share a passion for watchmaking and collaborate with the brands we love. You can learn more about Collective – who we are, our philosophy, and projects – from HODINKEE Radio, Robb Report, Watchonista, as well as from our current and previous collaborations.

If you’re interested in joining Collective, please visit our membership page for more information and FAQs. For general questions and media inquiries, email info@collectivehorology.com.

Official website: https://collectivehorology.com

About Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin is the Pioneering Manufacture inspired by the sea and delivering innovative timepieces to free spirits. Founded by Mr. Ulysse Nardin in 1846 and a proud Maison of the global luxury group Kering since November 2014, Ulysse Nardin has written some of the finest chapters in the history of Haute Horlogerie. The company’s earliest renown came from its links to the nautical world: its marine chronometers are among the most reliable ever made, still sought by collectors around the world. A pioneer of cutting-edge technologies and the innovative use of materials like silicon, the brand is one of the few with the in-house expertise to produce its own high-precision components and movements. This exceptional level of watchmaking excellence has earned Ulysse Nardin membership in the most exclusive circle of Swiss watchmaking, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. Today, from its sites in Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland, the brand’s continuing quest for horological perfection centers around five collections: The Marine, the Diver, the Classico, the Executive and the Freak. In 2020, Ulysse Nardin explored the Xtremes, bringing the X-factor to the core of its collections.

Official website: www.ulysse-nardin.com 

About Hamilton Jewelers

Founded in New Jersey in 1912, Hamilton Jewelers has a heritage of tradition and outstanding service. This spirit of service - to our clients and our communities - is the thread that unifies the 4 generations of the Siegel family across the decades and miles from Princeton, New Jersey to Palm Beach, Florida, as well as around the globe. Bringing the world's finest offerings in jewels and timepieces to our national and international clientele has been a Hamilton tradition that began with our founder in 1912, and was conveyed to successive generations of the Siegel family. Martin, our former Chairman until his passing in 2019, joined the business in 1955. Hank Siegel followed his father's path in 1981, becoming the third generation to be President, and was appointed CEO in 1992. Hank's son Andrew joined the firm in 2017 as Hamilton's Director of Business Strategy and Operations, representing the fourth generation of the Siegel family to lead the family business.

Since the company's beginning, Hamilton Jewelers has always combined the characteristics of an international jeweler with the unique hospitality of a regional family business. Wherever you are in the United States, when investing in fine jewelry or your next favorite timepiece, you can trust our earned reputation for excellence. Our tenured team is highly accredited in their fields of expertise, from watchmakers to gemologists and appraisers, to certified jewelry professionals. Our sales consultants take the time to build relationships with our guests so that your needs are anticipated and expectations are exceeded.

Official website: https://www.hamiltonjewelers.com

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About the Horological Society of New York

Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Today, HSNY is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education. Members are a diverse mix of watchmakers, clockmakers, executives, journalists, auctioneers, historians, salespeople and collectors, reflecting the rich nature of horology in New York City.

Official website: https://hs-ny.org

HSNY Establishes New Scholarships for Black and Jewish Watchmaking Students

New York City - January 5, 2021

The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) was founded in 1866 by a small group of German emigres answering the call for a need for watchmakers in the USA. They formed a library, offered lectures, and provided their members with benefits. Today, HSNY continues its spirit of expansion and inclusivity with two new scholarships - the Benjamin Banneker Scholarship for Black Watchmaking Students and the Oscar Waldan Scholarship for Jewish Watchmaking Students.

Time does not discriminate, but Black and Jewish watchmakers are underrepresented both in the historic and modern watchmaking industries. The goal of the Benjamin Banneker Scholarship for Black Watchmaking Students and the Oscar Waldan Scholarship for Jewish Watchmaking Students is to encourage a stronger and more diverse industry with a broad range of backgrounds and experiences, and in turn, advance the art and science of horology.

Benjamin Banneker depicted on a 1943 mural by Maxime Seelbinder in the Washington D.C. Recorder of Deeds Building.

About Benjamin Banneker

Those who studied American history might recall the name Benjamin Banneker but may not know of his incredible horological achievements. Banneker (1731-1806) was a renaissance man of many talents - a self-taught mathematician, astronomer, and horologist - who built one of the first wooden mechanical clocks in North America in 1753. Modeled after an imported pocket watch that he disassembled and studied, the hour-striking clock kept precise time and ran for 50 years before it was destroyed by fire. Banneker is also credited with corresponding with Thomas Jefferson on the issue of slavery, and his messages were promoted by abolitionists and supporters of racial equality. 

Today, Banneker is honored with many schools, streets, recreational and cultural facilities named after him. In 1980, the U.S. Postal Service honored Banneker with a postage stamp.

“I'm proud of HSNY's newest step towards building legacy,” said actor, horologist, and HSNY Trustee Aldis Hodge. “I believe, with the establishment of the Benjamin Banneker Scholarship, we’ll be able to open doors of opportunity and light fires in the souls of the next generation of brilliant minds who’ll carry horology to its greatest potential.”

About Oscar Waldan

Oscar Waldan (1923-2018) was a Polish-born, Jewish watchmaker and the founder and former President of Waldan International. Waldan learned the basics of watchmaking during his imprisonment in the Buchenwald Concentration Camp during World War II, where he befriended a watchmaker in the camp who took him on as his apprentice and subsequently, that skill saved his life. Upon liberation, Waldan continued to pursue a life of horology with training in Switzerland and Germany. 

Oscar Waldan (1923-2018), Founder and former President of Waldan International

Following a prestigious career having held senior positions in both sales and design at Tissot, Universal Geneve and the Holzer Watch Company from the 1950s to 1970s, as well as independent consulting for entities like IWC and Rolex in the 1980s, Waldan founded Waldan International in 1979. He went on to produce various private label collections of timeless wristwatches for companies like Tiffany & Co., Tourneau and Neiman Marcus before designing and launching his own line of Waldan Watches, a collection of high-grade chronographs and chronometers capturing the best of his eye and career of high-end craft and design.

“It brings me great pride to launch this scholarship with the Horological Society of New York, in honor of my late father, Oscar Waldan,” said Andrew L. Waldan, CEO and President of Waldan International. “Education was one of my father's greatest passions in life, he worked to enrich his own life with knowledge, and by offering this opportunity supporting talent where merited, we will contribute to the current and next generations of this great art form that connects so many around the world.”

Application Process

The application period for the Benjamin Banneker Scholarship and the Oscar Waldan Scholarship is January 1 to March 1 of every year. Additional financial aid opportunities include HSNY’s Henry B. Fried Scholarship for Watchmaking Students and the Howard Robbins Award for Watchmaking Schools. 

Any Black or Jewish student who has been accepted or is currently studying at a full-time watchmaking school in the USA is eligible for the Benjamin Banneker and Oscar Waldan Scholarship, respectively. Prospective students may also apply, with the understanding that the scholarship is contingent on their enrollment at a full-time watchmaking school. Financial aid is awarded every April with awards up to $5,000 in 2021.

To apply, students should email a letter in PDF form to the Trustees of the Horological Society of New York that includes a biography, an explanation of their motivation to study watchmaking, and an explanation of how this scholarship would benefit the applicant. A resume is required, and reference letters are recommended.

To learn more about the Benjamin Banneker Scholarship and to read the full qualifications, please visit https://hs-ny.org/benjamin-banneker-scholarship. 

To learn more about the Oscar Waldan Scholarship and to read the full qualifications, please visit https://hs-ny.org/oscar-waldan-scholarship. 

To learn more about the Henry B. Fried Scholarship and to read the full qualifications, please visit https://hs-ny.org/scholarship.  

To learn more about the Howard Robbins Award and to read the full qualifications, please visit https://hs-ny.org/robbins-award.   

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About the Horological Society of New York

Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Today, HSNY is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education. Members are a diverse mix of watchmakers, clockmakers, executives, journalists, auctioneers, historians, salespeople and collectors, reflecting the rich nature of horology in New York City.

Welcoming New HSNY Members, December 2020

HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day. 

• Adam Harris, Spain

• Adrian Ivashkiv, NY

• Alp Onay, MA

• Andrew Baker, NY

• Anthony Halstead, CA

• Anthony Salva, NY

• Ben Walsh, PA

• Brad Howard Levey, PA

• Brad Tucker, GA

• Brendan Cunningham, CT

• Chan Chun Wing, Hong Kong

• Charles Allen, NC

• Chris Williams, NJ

• Clarke Harding, CA

• Clay Foster, MO

• Corey Sherman, NY

• Cormac Kinney, NY

• Dan Axtell, NC

• Daniel Giardina, NY

• Daniel Wright, VA

• David Gorrell, MD

• Dennis Gallitano, IL

• Dennis Leyble, NY

• Duncan Wood, Australia

• E. Jay Abt, GA

• Eric Elenewski, IL

• Eric Goetz, TX

• Eric Root, FL

• Erik Swanson, IL

• Gregory A. May, NY

• Harrison Gordon, NY

• Henry Li, CA

• Hillit Zwick, NY

• Jack Bonner, SC

• Jacob Moss Idema, MI

• James Hochmuth, CO

• James McBride, CA

• James Melkun, NY

• Jazz Munitz, NY

• Jeremy Muir, AZ

• Jesse Munning, NJ

• Jon W. Breitenbucher, OH

• Jonah Leigh Durrant Olsen, Canada

• Josh Aubuchon, FL

• Josh Cohen, NY

• Joshua Wise, CA

• Justin Robert Lotsbom, CO

• Keith Olender, IL

• Kenneth Liu, NY

• Lawrence Adam, Singapore

• Lee Tse, GA

• Marc Simons, WA

• Matt Urquhart, CA

• Matthew Jimenez, FL

• Matthew Schwartz, CT

• Mel Spinella, CA

• Michael Green, NJ

• Michael Nickle, CO

• Nicholas DePetrillo, CA

• Nikhil Kriplani, NC

• Noah Lesser, FL

• Noah Wrubel, NJ

• Norman Harris, CA

• Patrick Aguilar, OK

• Peter C. Coffee, WA

• Peter Dipietro, NJ

• Peter Hui, CA

• Peter Pronko, CO

• Peter Whittle, PA

• Reggie Mathew, FL

• Richard Freilich, NY

• Rob Handshy, IL

• Robert Michon, Canada

• Ron Houde, CT

• Dr. Ronald Frank, NJ

• Russell Farhang, CT

• Sam Bhayani, MO

• Sam Corrao Clanon, NY

• Sean King, CT

• Shantanu Agrawal, MD

• Snah Desai, CA

• Spencer Chang, CA

• Spencer Havens, WA

• Ted Baer, NE

• Thomas Divilio, MD

• Thomas Lubeck, NY

• Thomas Matta, NY

• Tianzhi Cui, NJ

• Tripp Carey, PA

• USA Watch Service, NH

• Victoria Smith, MD

• Vincent J. Scutaro, NY

• William H. Julien, FL

• William Huff, MO

• William Remington, IA

• Yana Polikarpov, NY

Upcoming Lecture: Journey Through the Secrets of Vacheron Constantin

Join HSNY on Wednesday, January 6, 2021 for a virtual lecture on a Journey Through the Secrets of Vacheron Constantin, presented by Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin Heritage & Style Director, Geneva, Switzerland, and Roger Michel, Institute for Digital Archaeology Executive Director, Oxford, United Kingdom.

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Join Vacheron Constantin Heritage & Style Director Christian Selmoni as he shares some of Vacheron Constantin’s most incredible timepieces and the stories behind them. Institute for Digital Archaeology Executive Director Roger Michel will join Selmoni in exploring the intimate ties between the notion of time and the ingenuity devoted to its measurement through successive eras. The lecture will focus on a variety of timepieces from Vacheron Constantin, all steeped in history.

READ THE FULL STORY HERE!

Zoom Webinar to begin promptly at 1:00pm Eastern Time (US and Canada).
Webinar registration is required.

HSNY Offers Complimentary GMT Magazine Subscription With Membership

HSNY is excited to offer our members even more benefits with their recurring memberships! 

New and existing members who choose to opt in will receive a complimentary digital subscription to GMT Magazine for 2021.

HSNY members can dive in to the December issue of GMT Magazine, featuring all the winners from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Enjoy GMT year-round with additional issues in April, June, September, October and November, delivered straight to your inbox.

View all HSNY membership benefits here and join today! 

*By opting in, members allow GMT Magazine access to personal information for marketing purposes. A GMT Magazine digital subscription is valid from December 2020 to December 2021. HSNY members must have a recurring membership plan to opt in.

Already a member? Click here to opt in (using your HSNY membership password).

HSNY President's Holiday Letter, 2020

Dear HSNY members, officers, staff, and family,

Since this is my first Horological  Society of New York (HSNY) holiday letter I should introduce myself. I’ll be brief because I generally don’t like to advertise. I’ve been interested in timekeeping for as long as I can remember, especially in wristwatches. This passion turned into a small collection. That turned into completing a 3,000-hour WOSTEP training which laid the foundation for my career in the industry. Since then I’ve been incredibly lucky to be in the right place at the right time. I have ten years’ experience as a watchmaker at the bench. Along the way, I completed many trainings including a Breguet factory certificate for complicated tourbillon watches. In the last decade, I’ve been privileged to manage two different SAV workshops and work with many incredibly talented people.

Frankly, it is humbling to write this and to now serve you all as President of HSNY. I’m grateful to my longtime friend Ed Hydeman who stepped down earlier this year as HSNY’s Executive Director. Ed deserves an enormous amount of credit for keeping our organization alive when many people thought watchmaking was going to die. I wish him a very long and healthy retirement.

I’m grateful to Nick Manousos who has done so much to grow HSNY and congratulate him for now assuming the Executive Director position.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Henry Fried. The most famous past president of HSNY, who left impossibly large shoes to fill. I never had the chance to meet him but have learned from him through his incredible books.

Most of all, I am grateful to all the members, sponsors, and donors who support HSNY. Perhaps you have found this holiday greeting through an enthusiasm for watches, clocks, timekeeping, or simply craftsmanship itself. Whatever excites you, our goal during the year is to add fuel to your fire.

No matter how you’ve stumbled across this note, I hope it finds you in good health and encourages you to keep learning, to take care of the ones you love, and to do what you can to create a few more beautiful things to add to the world for others to enjoy today and in the future.

This is what brings us together, and what strengthens the community we enjoy so much — excitement for the best of what we can create, appreciation of time and timekeepers, and HSNY's mission of education. Time, after all, is the most precious luxury of all.

I look forward to a better 2021, to building an even more amazing membership, and to learning from as many of you as possible. With that, I wish all of you, very sincerely, happy holidays and best wishes going into a New Year.
 

Season’s greetings,
John Teifert
President, Horological Society of New York

Meeting Recap: A Tapestry of Time

William J. H. Andrewes, Sundial Architect & Horological Consultant, Concord, Massachusetts
December 7, 2020

Video recordings of lectures are available to members immediately (using your membership password), and to the general public with a two-month delay.

For the Horological Society of New York’s (HSNY) final lecture of 2020, sundial architect and horological consultant William Andrewes discussed the overdue recognition of the contributions of John Harrison (1693 - 1776) to precision mechanical timekeeping and the dedicated individuals who continued Harrison’s legacy.

FINDING LONGITUDE
Before getting into Harrison’s horological heritage, Andrewes began with a retrospective on the early days of horology and detecting longitude. There were maps illustrating longitude from a 1549 manuscript from France and a 1482 creation based on Ptolemy’s geography. Also discussed were the proposals on determining longitude such as using lunar distance (Johannes Werner in 1514), the use of a timekeeper (Gemma Frisius in 1530), and the observation of the eclipse moons of Jupiter (Gallileo - 1610). Due to the substantial loss of life and cargo from shipwrecks, the British government was prompted to establish the Longitude Act to solve the problem of longitude with a prize of £20,000 (about $30 million today). The invention of the pendulum is noteworthy since it improved the precision of mechanical clocks from about 15 minutes a day to one minute a week. Also of note is the importance of the balance spring in enhancing precision. Because of the improvement in precision, the clock now became a legitimate scientific tool.

JOHN HARRISON (1693 - 1776)
Andrewes then turned his attention to Harrison and his horological creations. In 1713, Harrison’s foray into horology began with a tall case clock made of wood (with the use of oak for the wheels and boxwood for the pinions) which exemplified his livelihood as a carpenter. His ingenuity was displayed by using an oily wood called lignum vitae which eliminated the need for lubrication. Harrison’s ideas brought him to London and he made contact with the luminaries Edmund Halley (1656-1742) and George Graham (1673 - 1751). After receiving an interest-free loan from Graham, Harrison was on his way to building his first marine chronometer and his venture towards the prize for finding longitude. The H1 was completed in 1735, the H2 was completed in 1739 but smaller than H1, the H3 took 19 years to make. Between the H3 and H4, Harrison designed a pocket watch in 1752 that incorporated temperature and the H4 which was completed in 1759 and tested on the 1764 voyage to Barbados.

SAVING TIME
One would think that Harrison’s timekeepers would be considered as national treasures; however, they were all but forgotten within the walls of Greenwich. It wasn’t until Lieutenant Commander Rupert Gould (1890 - 1948) saw the mechanisms on March 5, 1920 (and dedicated himself to their restoration) that an exhibition was arranged in 1935 to display all of the marine chronometers: H1, H2, H3, H4 and H5. That’s rather incredible given that Gould was not compensated for the work (he was given the odd amount for expenses) and that Gould is not a trained clockmaker.

RENAISSANCE OF THE TIMEKEEPERS
Andrewes has been fortunate to work with timekeepers and curators of high regard throughout his horological career. Individuals such as Martin Burgess who established the Harrison Research Group; Colonel Humphrey Quill (1897 - 1987) who published “John Harrison: The Man who found Longitude” and continued the studies of Harrison when Burgess passed away in 1938. By Quill’s request, Andrewes got the opportunity to work on an unfinished wooden movement that Harrison started in 1720 and apprenticed under George Daniels who oversaw the project. The movement was completed in 1972 and was fitted with a purpose-built display case for exhibition in the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers’ Museum. 

After diverging into engraving medals for the tercentenary of the Royal Observatory, Andrewes met Richard Good and Derek Howse (1919 - 1998). Derek offered Andrewes a job for three days a week to conserve the clocks at the Observatory, which in turn introduced Andrewes to Seth Atwood (1917 - 2010), the founder of The Time Museum, and to Marjorie and Roderick Webster, curators of the Adler Planetarium’s collection in Chicago. In 1976, Andrewes (along with others) established The Harrison Exhibition at the National Maritime Museum. However, the exhibition was thwarted due to publicity conflicts.

The listing below illustrates the other fascinating individuals that lead to other projects in Andrewes' horological career:

• Len Salzer (1922 - 1990) was commissioned to make a replica of H1 with Charles Allix (1921 - 2015)

• David Pingree Wheatland, founder of the Collection of Historical Scientific Instruments (CHSI) that Andrewes oversaw as the curator from 1987 to 1999

• Andrewes was finally able to give Harrison the recognition he deserved by hosting The Longitude Symposium at Harvard University in November 1993. Notable attendees such as David Landes, Alistair Cooke and Dava Sobel helped tremendously with publicity

• Malcolm Leach (mechanical engineer) who built an exact reconstruction of H2 and was exhibited at Christie’s London in June 2005

• Unfinished movement of Burgess clock “B” was acquired and moved from the shop with the help of Charles Frodsham & Co.

• Derek Pratt (1938 - 2009) along with Frodsham & Co made a replica of H4

HSNY thanks William Andrewes for his fascinating lecture!

Submitted by Melody Benloss, Recording Secretary & Associate Librarian

HSNY Offers Complimentary HODINKEE Magazine Subscription With Membership

We are delighted to offer Horological Society of New York Members exciting new benefits beginning...NOW!

Starting today, new and existing HSNY members who choose to opt in will receive a complimentary print subscription to HODINKEE Magazine.

Embark on a horological reading journey with an ongoing subscription to HODINKEE Magazine, beginning with Volume 7, featuring "Why I Collect" stories, vintage watches insight, a personal essay from actor, horologist and HSNY Trustee Aldis Hodge, and much more!

Now is the perfect time to give the gift of horology with a membership to America's first watchmaking guild!

View all HSNY membership benefits here and join today!

*By opting in, members allow HODINKEE access to personal information for shipping and marketing purposes. At this time, HODINKEE Magazine subscriptions are available to HSNY members in the US only.

Already a member? Click here to opt in (using your HSNY membership password).

Consider This: Talking Bremont Watch Company with The Royal Oak Foundation, December 10

If you’ve ever visited the Horological Society of New York’s headquarters in Midtown Manhattan, you know that the building we are in, the General Society of Mechanics & Tradesmen, is home to some of New York’s most interesting non-profit organizations.

One of them is The Royal Oak Foundation, and on Thursday, December 10, 2020 at 1PM ET, they’ll be joined by Bremont Watch Company for a zoom webinar on the brand’s history. If you’ve ever wanted to know more about the British brand, now is the time to tune in.

From tragedy to triumph, Bremont Watch Company co-founder Giles English will discuss the story of the company that today produces British bespoke watches for adventure seekers, aviators, Olympians, military personnel, and more.

The webinar will be hosted by The Royal Oak Foundation, which seeks to raise awareness of and advance the work of the National Trust of England, Wales, and Northern Ireland by inspiring support from the United States for the Trust’s efforts to preserve and protect historic places and spaces—for ever, for everyone. In the United States, the Royal Oak Foundation offers a wide range of programs and activities focused on the National Trust, British art and architecture, fine & decorative arts, gardens, history, as well as conservation and historic preservation.  

Learn more about The Royal Oak Foundation here, and join the Crafting Time: Bremont Watch Company zoom webinar here.

Horology Documentary “Keeper of Time” Debuts Teaser Trailer

Back in 2018, documentary producer and director Michael Culyba set out on a mission to produce a fresh feature-length picture about the world of horology.

Today, Culyba and his independent production company, Tourbillon Film Works, LLC, are ready to present a teaser trailer for “Keeper of Time”.

“Keeper of Time” dives into the world of mechanical watchmaking, following the journeys of independent watchmakers Philippe Dufour, Roger W. Smith, François-Paul Journe and Max Büsser. A much-needed fresh take on the world of horology as it exists today, the documentary is packed with in-depth interviews from some of the Horological Society of New York’s (HSNY) key players and lecturers, including HSNY Executive Director Nicholas Manousos, Ben Clymer (Founder/Ceo, HODINKEE), Michael Friedman (Head of Complications, Audemars Piguet and HSNY Trustee), William Andrewes (Sundial Maker who is lecturing on December 7, 2020), Eric Ku (Vintage Watch Dealer/Collector), William Massena (Watch Collector and HSNY Trustee), Brittany Nicole Cox (Antiquarian Horologist) and much more. 

“Keeper of Time” is set to debut in late winter 2021. Keep up with “Keeper of Time” announcements on keeperoftimemovie.com and on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.

Welcoming New HSNY Members, November 2020

HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day. 

• Amy L. Bohl, PA

• Andrew Darnell, CA

• Anibal Arocho, NY

• Braulio R. Chavez, TX

• Bryce E. Bockman, WA

• Chip DiPaula, MD

• Conor John Loughran, NY

• Cooper Pellaton, CA

• Dan Zuckerman, ID

• Davide Cerrato, Switzerland

• Derek R. Manchuk, Canada

• Drew Osborne, NY

• Eric Van Leeuwen, Netherlands

• Ethan Weinstein, CA

• Gabriel Hindin, Washington, D.C.

• Gabriel Tataru, Austria

• Greg Minuskin, CA

• Gregory Seaman, NJ

• Ivan K. Fernando, NY

• Joe Gallitano, PA

• Johnathan Charles, DE

• Joseph Finkhouse, MA

• Lou DeMarco, MD

• Marc Grabowski, IL

• Mark Paquette, MA

• Michael Zwolinski, OH

• Nicholas Ferrell, CA

• Panagis Alexatos, NY

• Patrick A. Lynn, MO

• Robert Dennis Tarro II, TX

• Robert Ivan Olanday, Singapore

• Roberto C. Sosa, TX

• Rohit Chatterjee, MA

• Steve Lessler, CA

• Zachary Blass, NY

• Ziad Annan, Lebanon

Upcoming Lecture: A Tapestry of Time

Join HSNY on Monday, December 7, 2020 for a virtual lecture on A Tapestry of Time, presented by William J. H. Andrewes, Sundial Architect & Horological Consultant, Concord, Massachusetts.

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With the phenomenal advances in technology that have transformed the wristwatch over the last few decades, it is easy to overlook the seminal contributions made 250 years ago by the pioneers of precision timekeeping. Chief among these was John Harrison, who, against all odds, made the first timekeeper that solved the problem of finding longitude at sea and thereby ushered in the age of high precision, portable timekeeping. At the December 2020 lecture of the Horological Society of New York, William Andrewes will discuss Harrison’s history.

One hundred years ago this year, Rupert Gould saw for the first time John Harrison’s marine timekeepers, H1, H2, H3, and H4, and, soon after, began the painstaking task of their restoration. H1, in particular, was in such deplorable condition that, had he not brought it back to life and described it so eloquently in print, it might not have survived. Yet, Gould did not fully recognize Harrison’s influence on the development of precision timekeeping. Fifty years ago, Harrison’s marine timekeepers were considered by some to be a glorious dead-end and his claim of the accuracy of a second in 100 days for his precision regulators was regarded as a gross exaggeration.

Since the publication of Dava Sobel’s best-selling book Longitude and the documentary and feature film that followed in its wake, John Harrison has become as well-known as Isaac Newton, Thomas Tompion, and George Graham and is now honored like them with a memorial in Westminster Abbey. Most recently, his timekeepers were featured in an international touring exhibition called “Ships, Clocks, and Stars” organized by the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich. 

The story of the renaissance of mechanical timekeeping over the last 50 years forms a tapestry of time, woven with a common thread of interest by many remarkable and colorful characters — makers like George Daniels, collectors such as Seth Atwood, dealers, writers, artists, and others with whom William Andrewes has worked to give Harrison the recognition he was for so long denied.

READ THE FULL STORY HERE!

Zoom Webinar to begin promptly at 7:00pm Eastern Time (US and Canada).
Webinar registration is required.

Q&A with Grand Seiko (November 2020 Meeting)

Earlier this month, the Horological Society of New York welcomed Grand Seiko to present a lecture on Kodō. More than 460 participants tuned in from 23 countries, breaking the record for attendance in HSNY's modern era. To accompany this milestone, HSNY received an overwhelming amount of questions for the Grand Seiko team throughout the lecture. While many questions were answered live (and can be viewed by HSNY members now) the Grand Seiko team reunited to answer the remaining questions. Below are responses from Akio Naito, Takuma Kawauchiya, Hisashi Fujieda and Joseph Kirk.

HSNY thanks Grand Seiko once again for their fascinating lecture and for responding to 50+ questions. Video recordings of lectures are available to members immediately (using your membership password), and to the general public with a two-month delay.

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Q: Will the new 9SA5 movement make its way into lower priced models?

A: Yes, we are going to develop a range of products based upon this new caliber in the future which will include a price point significantly lower than the 60th anniversary limited edition model (SLGH002), an example of which is SLGH003 recently announced. (Response provided by Mr. Akio Naito)

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Q: What’s on your wrist, Joe?

A: SBGJ203! It is certainly one of my most, if not most frequently worn watch. The design was created by Nobuhiro Kosugi, a quite famous designer for Grand Seiko who envisioned Mt. Iwate from above, which is visible from the studio, as his inspiration for the dial texture and has the reinterpretation 44GS case design. Plus, a GMT feature as I (was) travel(ling) frequently. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Was MEMS used to create the recesses for screws on the balance wheel in the new movements?

A: No, we do not use this method for these components. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: A quick question about earlier material - is the 9S64 family the same generation, technically, as the 9S65 (but just without a rotor)?

A: It is based on the 9S65 but does have a slightly different design. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Does the step design make it easier to apply lubricant than in regular instances?

A: Yes. The step design of the escapement wheel made by MEMS technology makes it easier to apply lubricant. However, there is no big difference in ease of applying lubricant between the new escapement wheel for 9SA5 and previous escapement wheels with the step design. (Response provided by Mr. Hisashi Fujieda)

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Q: Is the challenge of designing a new escapement design more of a practical or theoretical one?

A: Both theory and practicality are important. First the theoretical performance suggests the maximum performance of the escapement. Therefore, it is very important to tackle the challenge of designing a new escapement from theory. However, even if the escapement is superior in theory, it does not mean that the escapement can exhibit excellent performance. The theory only suggests the potential and it is necessary to overcome practical problems in order to demonstrate the theory. How can the actual performance be brought closer to the theoretical performance, and does it perform the basic functions of an escapement? Such practical challenges are indispensable in the development of escapements. Theory and practicality are intricately intertwined. So, if you focus on only one of them, I think it is difficult to make great progress in designing escapements. (Response provided by Mr. Hisashi Fujieda)

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Q: Joe, thanks for the awesome talk! Can we expect the 9SA5 to be serviceable in the USA?

A: Our goal is to expand our global service capabilities, however, since it is still so new, we cannot confirm at this time. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Is the new patented regulator system adjusting the hairspring collet position?

A: No, it is not. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: In terms of accuracy did Fujieda-san test his patented balance design against a tourbillon based system in a high-end Swiss watch to compare the result of his invention against a mechanical system that would cost a buyer a lot more money?

A: I am sorry but we cannot disclose any information about comparisons with other brands. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Is spron used for the two mainsprings?

A: Yes! (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: What material is the rotor made of?

A: Brass with Tungsten weight. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Two not-brutishly-large barrels in parallel… so in that way similar to the 9R31 and perhaps its higher-end sibling? Are there other GS (or Credor) movements which do that?

A: Actually, the 9R31 uses one barrel, but has two springs stacked within the one barrel which is unique to this and the 9R02 caliber. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Does the manual winding of the new caliber goes directly to the ratchet wheel without going the reverser wheels or is the winding going through the reverser wheel?

A: It goes directly to the ratchet wheel. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Why does the tourbillon use a traditional escape wheel rather than the new one?

A: These two were developed in parallel, and at the point when T0's design was fixed, the dual impulse escapement did not exist yet. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: In the T0, is the constant force mechanism a remontoire, or is a remontoire simply one way of delivering constant force and the T0 presents another way?

A: I regard T0's constant-force mechanism as a kind of remontoire. There are several mechanisms within remontoire, I applied a planetary type constant-force mechanism itself and combining it with a tourbillon on the same axis as a unit, which is less likely to cause malfunction and can minimize the resistance. I was thrilled thinking that I invented a new type of constant-force, until I found the patent filed in Switzerland in 1952. I was disappointed to find out I wasn't the first one but at the same time glad to have the same idea as a great watchmaker in the past. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: How robust will the T0 movement be?

A: T0 has passed various tests including drop test, vibration test, magnetic resistance test, and wearing test, so I believe T0 has enough practicality and durability. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: Great presentation Joe. All these new features on the 9AS5 will increase the service interval ? If the answer is “Yes” can we expect an extended warranty

A: In theory, yes. However, we we are not making any changes to the suggested service interval or warranty at this time. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Question to Takuma Kawauchiya - what is the next innovation you are working on?

A: I have so many ideas in my mind. Movement development always takes time and I am probably an old guy when I realize all of them. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: Is Grand Seiko considering Silicon movements for future movements?

A: While we recognize the benefits of silicon material, we believe that the longevity and ease of serviceability lies within metal components. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: With your new hi beat 36K movement, will Grand Seiko be phasing out the 9S85 movement in future watches?

A: At this time there are no plans to phase out 9S8 series. The two calibers will exist along side each other, yet at different price segments. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Thank you for wonderful presentation to all from Grand Seiko. How does one get a job at Grand Seiko? Cheers, from Canada wearing my SBGW253

A: There may be openings in various positions in each national office. (Response provided by Mr. Akio Naito)

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Q: Understanding that T0 is a concept design, what learnings do you hope to apply to future Grand Seiko models?

A: There is no solid plan yet but 9SA5's free-sprung balance and movement finishes are inspired by know-hows gained in the development of T0. I hope the technologies and constructions in T0 can be utilized in developing more elements in the future. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: I want to ask if the T0 movement will be incorporated in a chronograph later on.

A: We believe it could be possible, but it is not under consideration at this time. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Mr. Kawauchiya, congratulations on the T0. It looks fantastic. Do you find your musical background being a big source of inspiration for creating new movements like the T0? Will we see more musically-inspired movements from Grand Seiko?

A: I personally think the sound is one of the biggest charm of mechanical watches and I hope my creations to follow will have an attractive sound as well. T0's sound is clearly influenced by my music career. I will try my best to create watches that the wearer can enjoy using his/her own five senses. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: What are the tradeoffs that caused even higher beats not to be as effective as the optimal 10/15 beats/s?

A: Some of the main concerns are the wear, lubricant consumption, high torque output and shorter duration on the movements as were some of the concerns for Hi-Beat 36,000 though we found ways to overcome the challenge in time. We found good balance in the 36,000bph frequency, with high stability, duration and new methods and materials to increase its durability. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: What are the chances of seeing the new 9SA5 movement in a chronograph?

A: Caliber 9SA5 will be the foundation for future generations of Grand Seiko. (Response provided by Mr. Hisashi Fujieda)

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Q: It seems like materials science is playing a bigger role in design changes. Is it the biggest or are there things like additive manufacturing that are on the horizon?

A: Both T0 and 9SA5 utilize parts made by MEMS technology, and I do believe material science and technology development will remain crucial for design. As far as I know, additive manufacturing like 3D metal printing is not yet used in a watch movement yet but I believe it is realizable in the future. However, as a personal and cultural item, in my opinion, what attracts people most is the emotional value of mechanical watches rather than technology itself. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)  

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Q: I wanted to ask with Grand Seiko heritage and and Japan’s history with martial arts - does Martial arts have any influence with design and execution with Grand Seiko/Seiko.

A: In Japanese martial arts we train the mind, body and spirit and aim for perfection of character. It is also important to learn moral codes and etiquette as well as to improve techniques. More so than influence in design, perhaps this spirit is reflect in our spirit of watchmaking that is based on the pursuit of the essence of the wristwatch. (Response provided by Mr. Hisashi Fujieda)

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Q: What CAD software did you use to design T0, did you face challanges using CAM to cut out the T0 carriage, and did you use any heat treating/hardening techniques for the carriage?

A: We cannot disclose which CAD software. As you imagine, the 3D carriages are not easy to form, measure and assure the quality. I am glad these are all cleared eventually. The carriages are in titanium alloy and I didn't apply heat treatment. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: What are the next steps required to make the T0 movement commercially feasible?

A: We don't have a plan yet, but to commercialize it, we have to consider from many aspects including the production capability, after sales service, exteriors design and development which meet GS standard. There will be a lot of work. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: What is the antimagnetic rating for the T0?

A: 4800A／m. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: When, if ever, do you expect the T0 to be commercially available?

A: We do not have any concrete plans but as the movement designer, I am hoping that day will come soon. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: How did you arise at the decision to use ceramic as the material for the stop wheel?

A: A constant-force stores the force of a mainspring and releases it in constant intervals. Thus, as a key component, a stop wheel is required to have high durability (because this part bears high torque from the two barrels) and low friction resistance. I applied a precise ceramic gear for the stop wheel, whose processing was precise to a micron level. As a result, T0 can operate with certainty every second without the wear of the stop wheel. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: @Mr. Kawauchiya - As a musician, did you have the unique resulting ticking sound when you designed/developed the T0 movement? It is like a digital-ish sound rather than a typical mechanical watch movement sound?

A: I tried to make the sound unique. T0's ticking sounds like a 16th note in music. The movement of a constant-force is extremely delicate and it is hard to realize the exact 16th beat if made in a common engineering tolerance. So, despite the fact that the beating does not have to be exact in order to reach a high precision, I set more severe tolerances of the parts and included a mechanism to adjust the timing of the constant force mechanism's action to make the sound to be exact 16th note. I wanted to express the precision of manufacturing in the sound too. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: I have a Lord Marvel 36000 from the late 60's - it is +/- 4s day - 46 hour reserve (it’s amazing). Does all the new alloys, design and material make a significant difference?

A: Yes, the alloys, manufacturing methods and designs contribute greatly to improving the accuracy, stability, durability and longevity of our calibers. All important parts of our philosophy in watchmaking. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Following up to supporting heritage pieces, will Seiko (USA, or Japan) perform service on heritage pieces e.g. 44gs or 45gs?

A: Yes, servicing these calibers will be possible depending on the condition. It would have to be inspected prior to confirmation. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: What was the greatest inspiration for the T0 architecture design?

A: As a movement designer, I love watch components. In designing T0, I wanted to feature these beautiful components so that we can see them, as a watch, and to arrange them beautifully in a symmetrical layout. Although T0’s construction is not simple, as a concept creation of Grand Seiko, I tried to use simple lines and forms in the parts to make it understated yet impressive. I prefer designs developed to maximize function, rather than a beautiful design without considering usability. This is what every Grand Seiko has in common. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: What would you suggest for an American looking to get into watch making?

A: There are WOSTEP schools as well as independent watchmakers in US. I entered the WOSTEP school in Japan when I was 30 and it was not too late. In such a digitized world I believe there are so many chances. I hope whoever has passion in watchmaking can join the industry and hopefully we can make this industry more attractive and prosperous. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: Is the “16th note” engraved on the T0 connected to music in any way?

A: I did the engraving because T0's ticking sounds like 16th note in music and this is the first ever creation to have this feature. I am very proud of this engraving since it is also done to commemorate T0's high level processing. Hope you like my 'humor'. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Q: The technology and level of finishing in the 9SA5 is superb, and the price of the new high beats reflects that. Given that you plan to roll out this movement (or variants of it) broadly, should we expect a step change in GS price points?

A: While the new 9SA5 caliber does reflect a higher price than the 9S8 series calibers (example SBGH281: $6,300 vs SLGH003: $9,700, there will not be a change exactly in price points. There will just be two different price segments between the two calibers coexisting. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Does Grand Seiko plan to continue creating new mechanical movements that will improve accuracy and robustness? Aside from advancements and innovations in materials, how will this be possible? Many thanks.

A: Of course, innovation is something we always stride toward. Yes, advancements in materials plays a large part, but also the manufacturing methods and design. In the lecture, you learned that our calibers tend to focus on improving energy efficiency. It is a goal we continue to pursue. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)

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Q: Hello from Portugal! I have a very spiritual question. Is in any way Shintoist cultural heritage present in the creation of Grand Seiko Movements? As if it where a kami present in every creation as special as the T0. Thank you!

A: T0 is not inspired by Shintoism, but I do feel the Japanese sense of beauty is reflected throughout the whole movement, including the forms valuing the interplay of light and shadow, the tomoe shaped gear, and finishes inspired by shizuku (water drop) and waves. Both 9SA5 and T0 are developed for years, devoting our full passion and will, and if you can feel that, I cannot be more appreciated. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)

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Meeting Recap: Kodō: The Beating Heart of Grand Seiko

Joseph Kirk, Brand Curator and National Training Manager, Grand Seiko Corporation of America
Akio Naito, Chairman and CEO of Grand Seiko Corporation of America
Takuma Kawauchiya, Product Development Department of Seiko Watch Corporation
November 2, 2020

Video recordings of lectures are available to members immediately (using your membership password), and to the general public with a two-month delay.

For the Horological Society of New York’s (HSNY) record-breaking virtual attendance for its November 2020 lecture, Joseph Kirk of Grand Seiko Corporation of America returned to present Grand Seiko’s Caliber 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 80 hours with Dual Impulse Escapement and the concept creation T0 Constant Force Tourbillon, along with Grand Seiko’s Akio Naito and Takuma Kawauchiya.

Kirk began the lecture with a brief history of Grand Seiko’s beginnings in 1960 and the evolution of their mechanical movements:

Caliber 3180: 18,000 beats per hour (bph) and the first watch in Japan to be tested chronometer compliant

Caliber 430: Evolution in practicality such as increased water resistance and quick set date

Caliber 5722A: This caliber stemmed from the 430

Caliber 5722B: Its rate was increased to 19,800 bph

Caliber 052: Two variants with differing beats per second (bps) were made - 10 bps (36,000 bph) and 20 bps (72,000 bph)

Caliber R-45: 10, 15 and 20 bps were ideal for performance competitions

In 1968, Grand Seiko launched three 10-beat calibers:

Caliber 45GS - manually wound

Caliber 61GS - automatic 10-beat

Caliber 19GS - ladies hi-beat 36,000

The need for higher quality testing made use of the VFA “very fine adjusted” label, and was exemplified by the 45GS VFA, 61GS VFA and 19GS VFA calibers. In November 1988, a new era developed a new movement - the 9S series with the 9S55 caliber. The series range extended to the 9S5, 9S67, 9S85.

Before Kirk introduced Akio Naito, Chairman and CEO of Grand Seiko Corporation of America, he explained that 2020 happens to be Grand Seiko’s 60th Anniversary and in Japanese culture, reaching 60 is a very special celebration known as Kanreki. It is a completion of the full zodiac cycle and the event is symbolized by wearing a red color vest and hat. It was fitting that for Grand Seiko’s Kanreki, the logo is adorned with the red vest and hat.

Naito discussed the following in regards to the 60th Anniversary:

Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi opened this year that was designed by the renowned architect Kengo Kuma who is known for using natural materials. Fun fact: Kuma is also a fan of Grand Seiko.

The 9SA5 was the first caliber made in the new studio and is Grand Seiko’s finest caliber to date with its 36,000 hi-beat and 80-hour power reserve.

Kirk continued the lecture by further discussing Grand Seiko’s new movement and introduced Takuma Kawauchiya who designed the T0 constant force.

Hisashi Fujieda is the movement designer of the 9SA5 and three components within the movement make it special: the dual impulse escapement, the free sprung balance and the horizontal gear train.

Considering the T0 acronym: T is for torque, and the zero is for hours passed from a full wind of the mainspring. Along with the T0 focus on energy efficiency and precision, Kawauchiya talked about what inspired him to make the piece as well as producing a very unique ticking sound which has an exact 1/16th note.

HSNY thanks Joseph Kirk, Akio Naito and Takuma Kawauchiya for their fascinating lecture!

Submitted by Melody Benloss, Recording Secretary & Associate Librarian

Welcoming New HSNY Members, October 2020

HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day. 

• Alarik Myrin, NY

• Dirk Meyer, CA

• Donald Spencer, CT

• Eli Weldon, MA

• Kevin Small, United Kingdom

• Michael Green, WA

• Nirav Seth, ME

• Oliver l. Smith, AZ

• Rob Nudds, Germany

• Zev Barnett, NY

Upcoming Lecture: Kodō: The Beating Heart of Grand Seiko

Join HSNY on Monday, November 2, 2020 for a virtual lecture on Kodō, the beating heart of Grand Seiko, presented by Joseph Kirk, Brand Curator and National Training Manager, Grand Seiko Corporation of America. With special guests Akio Naito, Chairman and CEO of Grand Seiko Corporation of America, and Takuma Kawauchiya, Product Development Department of Seiko Watch Corporation.

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Since its birth in 1960, Grand Seiko has been dedicated to perfecting the essentials of watchmaking. With the goal of making the ‘ideal watch’, Grand Seiko strives to attain the ultimate in accuracy, legibility, durability and beauty, and uses its resources and history of mechanical watchmaking to craft the best possible movements they can in quartz, their proprietary Spring Drive technology, and since the launch of the brand, finely adjusted, purely mechanical calibers.

Kodō is Japanese for heartbeat. This lecture will cover Grand Seiko’s philosophy in mechanical watchmaking, the frequencies used and the advances in the mechanisms themselves, such as the newly introduced 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 80 hours with Dual Impulse Escapement and the new T0 Constant Force Tourbillon with the world’s first fully integrated constant force tourbillon on the same axis. While Grand Seiko offers various movement types, it is the purely mechanical type that is the beating heart of Grand Seiko.

READ THE FULL STORY HERE!

Zoom Webinar to begin promptly at 7:00pm Eastern Time (US and Canada).
Webinar registration is required.

Meeting Recap: Ferdinand Berthoud: History and Modern Developments

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Switzerland
Vincent Lapaire, General Manager, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Switzerland
October 5, 2020

October 5, 2020 - Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Switzerland Vincent Lapaire, General Manager, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Switzerland

For the October 2020 virtual presentation of the Horological Society of New York’s (HSNY) lecture series, the legacy of Ferdinand Berthoud shows how his watchmaking expertise influenced the world of horology. Berthoud created an impressive volume of works in the field of marine chronometers, decorative watches and clocks, specialist tools, scientific measuring instruments and the publishing of more than 4,000 pages of specialist articles and 120 engraved plates.

The lecture began with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s introduction on how he became aware of Berthoud and the steps Scheufele took to obtain the rights to the Ferdinand Berthoud name ― then Vincent Lapaire followed with a timeline of the watchmaker’s remarkable life:

1727 ― Born in Neuchatel, the youngest of five children

1741 ― Started an apprenticeship with his brother, Jean-Henri, at 14 years old

1745 ― At the age of 18, Berthoud moves to Paris to complete his training. It has to be noted that he arrived during the Age of Enlightenment (1715 - 1789). This moment is key when it comes to sharing knowledge.

1752 ― Submitted a memoir on a longcase equation regulator that exhibited leap year, solar time and mean time to the Royal Academy of Sciences

1753 ― Berthoud was granted the title of “Master Watchmaker” by the King’s Council

1755 ― Wrote several reference articles in the Encyclopedie, Ou Dictionnaire Raisonne Des Sciences, Des Arts Et Des Metiers

1759 ― The Art of Operating and Adjusting Clocks and Watches [..] was Berthoud’s first specialist book (with many books to follow in the coming years)

1760 ― Establishing an accurate marine chronometer was paramount in solving the longitude problem. Therefore, Berthoud submitted a project to the Royal Academy of Science that illustrates the construction of a Marine Clock M.M. No. 1.

1762 ― John Harrison’s H4 “sea watch” was Britain’s submission for the quest of longitude

1763 ― Published the two-volume Essai sur L’Horlogerie

1764 ― Elected as a Foreign Member of the Royal Society

1764 - 1776 ― Berthoud presented a variety of Marine Clocks to the Royal Academy

1767 ― His most important accomplishment stemmed from Marine Clock No. 6 and No. 8. They were weight-driven, balanced with the temperature compensated gradient device, and a balance wheel with movable masses that allows to modify the moment of inertia and both clocks were tested on a 12-month voyage from Rochefort to Santo Domingo in 1768.

1770 ― Awarded the prestigious position of “Watchmaker - Mechanic to the King and the Navy”

1773 ― Published the Treatise on Maine Chronometers. One particular aspect about Berthoud was that he shared his watchmaking knowledge. At the time, many watchmakers rarely shared what they knew.

1777 ― Developed smaller timekeepers such as the Marine Clock M.M.No. 6

1802 ― The History of Time Measurement by Clocks became Berthoud’s most important work. His book became the reference for Swiss watchmaking school until the 1950s

1807 ― At 80 years old, Berthoud passed away in Groslay, France

The lecture was finalized by the Ferdinand Berthoud brand showing their new timepiece Chronomètre FB 2RE to commemorate Berthoud’s 250th anniversary when he became the Clockmaker - Mechanic to the King and Navy. The new piece was inspired by Berthoud’s Marine Clock No. 6 with the enamel dial, new mechanical movement Caliber FB-RE.FC — it brings together the fusee-and-chain constant force transmission with the one-second remontoir d'egalité amongst other factors.

HSNY thanks Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Vincent Lapaire for their fascinating lecture!

Submitted by Melody Benloss, Recording Secretary & Associate Librarian

Welcoming New HSNY Members, September 2020

HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day. 

• Aaron Blase, MI

• Andrew Mancini, NY

• Anthony Cipparone, VA

• Chris Webber, CA

• Curtis Brown, FL

• Daniel Moses, NC

• Dennis A. Roach, CA

• Diego Brian Gosis, FL

• Hans-Joerg Riwar, Switzerland

• Ian Sunderland, Canada

• Ivan Huang, Singapore

• James Steele, IL

• Maegan Spencer, CA

• Melissa Scoppa, CA

• Mitchell Katz, CT

• Scott Lawrence, MI

• Tory McCarty, CT