Upcoming Lecture: A Tapestry of Time

Join HSNY on Monday, December 7, 2020 for a virtual lecture on A Tapestry of Time, presented by William J. H. Andrewes, Sundial Architect & Horological Consultant, Concord, Massachusetts.

With the phenomenal advances in technology that have transformed the wristwatch over the last few decades, it is easy to overlook the seminal contributions made 250 years ago by the pioneers of precision timekeeping. Chief among these was John Harrison, who, against all odds, made the first timekeeper that solved the problem of finding longitude at sea and thereby ushered in the age of high precision, portable timekeeping. At the December 2020 lecture of the Horological Society of New York, William Andrewes will discuss Harrison’s history.

One hundred years ago this year, Rupert Gould saw for the first time John Harrison’s marine timekeepers, H1, H2, H3, and H4, and, soon after, began the painstaking task of their restoration. H1, in particular, was in such deplorable condition that, had he not brought it back to life and described it so eloquently in print, it might not have survived. Yet, Gould did not fully recognize Harrison’s influence on the development of precision timekeeping. Fifty years ago, Harrison’s marine timekeepers were considered by some to be a glorious dead-end and his claim of the accuracy of a second in 100 days for his precision regulators was regarded as a gross exaggeration.

Since the publication of Dava Sobel’s best-selling book Longitude and the documentary and feature film that followed in its wake, John Harrison has become as well-known as Isaac Newton, Thomas Tompion, and George Graham and is now honored like them with a memorial in Westminster Abbey. Most recently, his timekeepers were featured in an international touring exhibition called “Ships, Clocks, and Stars” organized by the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich. 

The story of the renaissance of mechanical timekeeping over the last 50 years forms a tapestry of time, woven with a common thread of interest by many remarkable and colorful characters — makers like George Daniels, collectors such as Seth Atwood, dealers, writers, artists, and others with whom William Andrewes has worked to give Harrison the recognition he was for so long denied.

READ THE FULL STORY HERE!

Zoom Webinar to begin promptly at 7:00pm Eastern Time (US and Canada).
Webinar registration is required.

Q&A with Grand Seiko (November 2020 Meeting)

Earlier this month, the Horological Society of New York welcomed Grand Seiko to present a lecture on Kodō. More than 460 participants tuned in from 23 countries, breaking the record for attendance in HSNY's modern era. To accompany this milestone, HSNY received an overwhelming amount of questions for the Grand Seiko team throughout the lecture. While many questions were answered live (and can be viewed by HSNY members now) the Grand Seiko team reunited to answer the remaining questions. Below are responses from Akio Naito, Takuma Kawauchiya, Hisashi Fujieda and Joseph Kirk.

HSNY thanks Grand Seiko once again for their fascinating lecture and for responding to 50+ questions. Video recordings of lectures are available to members immediately (using your membership password), and to the general public with a two-month delay.


Q: Will the new 9SA5 movement make its way into lower priced models?

A: Yes, we are going to develop a range of products based upon this new caliber in the future which will include a price point significantly lower than the 60th anniversary limited edition model (SLGH002), an example of which is SLGH003 recently announced. (Response provided by Mr. Akio Naito)


Q: What’s on your wrist, Joe?

A: SBGJ203! It is certainly one of my most, if not most frequently worn watch. The design was created by Nobuhiro Kosugi, a quite famous designer for Grand Seiko who envisioned Mt. Iwate from above, which is visible from the studio, as his inspiration for the dial texture and has the reinterpretation 44GS case design. Plus, a GMT feature as I (was) travel(ling) frequently. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Was MEMS used to create the recesses for screws on the balance wheel in the new movements?

A: No, we do not use this method for these components. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: A quick question about earlier material - is the 9S64 family the same generation, technically, as the 9S65 (but just without a rotor)?

A: It is based on the 9S65 but does have a slightly different design. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Does the step design make it easier to apply lubricant than in regular instances?

A: Yes. The step design of the escapement wheel made by MEMS technology makes it easier to apply lubricant. However, there is no big difference in ease of applying lubricant between the new escapement wheel for 9SA5 and previous escapement wheels with the step design. (Response provided by Mr. Hisashi Fujieda)


Q: Is the challenge of designing a new escapement design more of a practical or theoretical one?

A: Both theory and practicality are important. First the theoretical performance suggests the maximum performance of the escapement. Therefore, it is very important to tackle the challenge of designing a new escapement from theory. However, even if the escapement is superior in theory, it does not mean that the escapement can exhibit excellent performance. The theory only suggests the potential and it is necessary to overcome practical problems in order to demonstrate the theory. How can the actual performance be brought closer to the theoretical performance, and does it perform the basic functions of an escapement? Such practical challenges are indispensable in the development of escapements. Theory and practicality are intricately intertwined. So, if you focus on only one of them, I think it is difficult to make great progress in designing escapements. (Response provided by Mr. Hisashi Fujieda)


Q: Joe, thanks for the awesome talk! Can we expect the 9SA5 to be serviceable in the USA?

A: Our goal is to expand our global service capabilities, however, since it is still so new, we cannot confirm at this time. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Is the new patented regulator system adjusting the hairspring collet position?

A: No, it is not. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: In terms of accuracy did Fujieda-san test his patented balance design against a tourbillon based system in a high-end Swiss watch to compare the result of his invention against a mechanical system that would cost a buyer a lot more money?

A: I am sorry but we cannot disclose any information about comparisons with other brands. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Is spron used for the two mainsprings?

A: Yes! (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: What material is the rotor made of?

A: Brass with Tungsten weight. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Two not-brutishly-large barrels in parallel… so in that way similar to the 9R31 and perhaps its higher-end sibling? Are there other GS (or Credor) movements which do that?

A: Actually, the 9R31 uses one barrel, but has two springs stacked within the one barrel which is unique to this and the 9R02 caliber. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Does the manual winding of the new caliber goes directly to the ratchet wheel without going the reverser wheels or is the winding going through the reverser wheel?

A: It goes directly to the ratchet wheel. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Why does the tourbillon use a traditional escape wheel rather than the new one?

A: These two were developed in parallel, and at the point when T0's design was fixed, the dual impulse escapement did not exist yet. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: In the T0, is the constant force mechanism a remontoire, or is a remontoire simply one way of delivering constant force and the T0 presents another way?

A: I regard T0's constant-force mechanism as a kind of remontoire. There are several mechanisms within remontoire, I applied a planetary type constant-force mechanism itself and combining it with a tourbillon on the same axis as a unit, which is less likely to cause malfunction and can minimize the resistance. I was thrilled thinking that I invented a new type of constant-force, until I found the patent filed in Switzerland in 1952. I was disappointed to find out I wasn't the first one but at the same time glad to have the same idea as a great watchmaker in the past. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: How robust will the T0 movement be?

A: T0 has passed various tests including drop test, vibration test, magnetic resistance test, and wearing test, so I believe T0 has enough practicality and durability. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: Great presentation Joe. All these new features on the 9AS5 will increase the service interval ? If the answer is “Yes” can we expect an extended warranty

A: In theory, yes. However, we we are not making any changes to the suggested service interval or warranty at this time. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Question to Takuma Kawauchiya - what is the next innovation you are working on?

A: I have so many ideas in my mind. Movement development always takes time and I am probably an old guy when I realize all of them. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: Is Grand Seiko considering Silicon movements for future movements?

A: While we recognize the benefits of silicon material, we believe that the longevity and ease of serviceability lies within metal components. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: With your new hi beat 36K movement, will Grand Seiko be phasing out the 9S85 movement in future watches?

A: At this time there are no plans to phase out 9S8 series. The two calibers will exist along side each other, yet at different price segments. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Thank you for wonderful presentation to all from Grand Seiko. How does one get a job at Grand Seiko? Cheers, from Canada wearing my SBGW253

A: There may be openings in various positions in each national office. (Response provided by Mr. Akio Naito)


Q: Understanding that T0 is a concept design, what learnings do you hope to apply to future Grand Seiko models?

A: There is no solid plan yet but 9SA5's free-sprung balance and movement finishes are inspired by know-hows gained in the development of T0. I hope the technologies and constructions in T0 can be utilized in developing more elements in the future. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: I want to ask if the T0 movement will be incorporated in a chronograph later on.

A: We believe it could be possible, but it is not under consideration at this time. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Mr. Kawauchiya, congratulations on the T0. It looks fantastic. Do you find your musical background being a big source of inspiration for creating new movements like the T0? Will we see more musically-inspired movements from Grand Seiko?

A: I personally think the sound is one of the biggest charm of mechanical watches and I hope my creations to follow will have an attractive sound as well. T0's sound is clearly influenced by my music career. I will try my best to create watches that the wearer can enjoy using his/her own five senses. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: What are the tradeoffs that caused even higher beats not to be as effective as the optimal 10/15 beats/s?

A: Some of the main concerns are the wear, lubricant consumption, high torque output and shorter duration on the movements as were some of the concerns for Hi-Beat 36,000 though we found ways to overcome the challenge in time. We found good balance in the 36,000bph frequency, with high stability, duration and new methods and materials to increase its durability. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: What are the chances of seeing the new 9SA5 movement in a chronograph?

A: Caliber 9SA5 will be the foundation for future generations of Grand Seiko. (Response provided by Mr. Hisashi Fujieda)


Q: It seems like materials science is playing a bigger role in design changes. Is it the biggest or are there things like additive manufacturing that are on the horizon?

A: Both T0 and 9SA5 utilize parts made by MEMS technology, and I do believe material science and technology development will remain crucial for design. As far as I know, additive manufacturing like 3D metal printing is not yet used in a watch movement yet but I believe it is realizable in the future. However, as a personal and cultural item, in my opinion, what attracts people most is the emotional value of mechanical watches rather than technology itself. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)  


Q: I wanted to ask with Grand Seiko heritage and and Japan’s history with martial arts - does Martial arts have any influence with design and execution with Grand Seiko/Seiko.

A: In Japanese martial arts we train the mind, body and spirit and aim for perfection of character. It is also important to learn moral codes and etiquette as well as to improve techniques. More so than influence in design, perhaps this spirit is reflect in our spirit of watchmaking that is based on the pursuit of the essence of the wristwatch. (Response provided by Mr. Hisashi Fujieda)


Q: What CAD software did you use to design T0, did you face challanges using CAM to cut out the T0 carriage, and did you use any heat treating/hardening techniques for the carriage?

A: We cannot disclose which CAD software. As you imagine, the 3D carriages are not easy to form, measure and assure the quality. I am glad these are all cleared eventually. The carriages are in titanium alloy and I didn't apply heat treatment. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: What are the next steps required to make the T0 movement commercially feasible?

A: We don't have a plan yet, but to commercialize it, we have to consider from many aspects including the production capability, after sales service, exteriors design and development which meet GS standard. There will be a lot of work. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: What is the antimagnetic rating for the T0?

A: 4800A/m. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: When, if ever, do you expect the T0 to be commercially available?

A: We do not have any concrete plans but as the movement designer, I am hoping that day will come soon. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: How did you arise at the decision to use ceramic as the material for the stop wheel?

A: A constant-force stores the force of a mainspring and releases it in constant intervals. Thus, as a key component, a stop wheel is required to have high durability (because this part bears high torque from the two barrels) and low friction resistance. I applied a precise ceramic gear for the stop wheel, whose processing was precise to a micron level. As a result, T0 can operate with certainty every second without the wear of the stop wheel. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: @Mr. Kawauchiya - As a musician, did you have the unique resulting ticking sound when you designed/developed the T0 movement? It is like a digital-ish sound rather than a typical mechanical watch movement sound?

A: I tried to make the sound unique. T0's ticking sounds like a 16th note in music. The movement of a constant-force is extremely delicate and it is hard to realize the exact 16th beat if made in a common engineering tolerance. So, despite the fact that the beating does not have to be exact in order to reach a high precision, I set more severe tolerances of the parts and included a mechanism to adjust the timing of the constant force mechanism's action to make the sound to be exact 16th note. I wanted to express the precision of manufacturing in the sound too. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: I have a Lord Marvel 36000 from the late 60's - it is +/- 4s day - 46 hour reserve (it’s amazing). Does all the new alloys, design and material make a significant difference?

A: Yes, the alloys, manufacturing methods and designs contribute greatly to improving the accuracy, stability, durability and longevity of our calibers. All important parts of our philosophy in watchmaking. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Following up to supporting heritage pieces, will Seiko (USA, or Japan) perform service on heritage pieces e.g. 44gs or 45gs?

A: Yes, servicing these calibers will be possible depending on the condition. It would have to be inspected prior to confirmation. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: What was the greatest inspiration for the T0 architecture design?

A: As a movement designer, I love watch components. In designing T0, I wanted to feature these beautiful components so that we can see them, as a watch, and to arrange them beautifully in a symmetrical layout. Although T0’s construction is not simple, as a concept creation of Grand Seiko, I tried to use simple lines and forms in the parts to make it understated yet impressive. I prefer designs developed to maximize function, rather than a beautiful design without considering usability. This is what every Grand Seiko has in common. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: What would you suggest for an American looking to get into watch making?

A: There are WOSTEP schools as well as independent watchmakers in US. I entered the WOSTEP school in Japan when I was 30 and it was not too late. In such a digitized world I believe there are so many chances. I hope whoever has passion in watchmaking can join the industry and hopefully we can make this industry more attractive and prosperous. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: Is the “16th note” engraved on the T0 connected to music in any way?

A: I did the engraving because T0's ticking sounds like 16th note in music and this is the first ever creation to have this feature. I am very proud of this engraving since it is also done to commemorate T0's high level processing. Hope you like my 'humor'. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Q: The technology and level of finishing in the 9SA5 is superb, and the price of the new high beats reflects that. Given that you plan to roll out this movement (or variants of it) broadly, should we expect a step change in GS price points?

A: While the new 9SA5 caliber does reflect a higher price than the 9S8 series calibers (example SBGH281: $6,300 vs SLGH003: $9,700, there will not be a change exactly in price points. There will just be two different price segments between the two calibers coexisting. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Does Grand Seiko plan to continue creating new mechanical movements that will improve accuracy and robustness? Aside from advancements and innovations in materials, how will this be possible? Many thanks.

A: Of course, innovation is something we always stride toward. Yes, advancements in materials plays a large part, but also the manufacturing methods and design. In the lecture, you learned that our calibers tend to focus on improving energy efficiency. It is a goal we continue to pursue. (Response provided by Mr. Joseph Kirk)


Q: Hello from Portugal! I have a very spiritual question. Is in any way Shintoist cultural heritage present in the creation of Grand Seiko Movements? As if it where a kami present in every creation as special as the T0. Thank you!

A: T0 is not inspired by Shintoism, but I do feel the Japanese sense of beauty is reflected throughout the whole movement, including the forms valuing the interplay of light and shadow, the tomoe shaped gear, and finishes inspired by shizuku (water drop) and waves. Both 9SA5 and T0 are developed for years, devoting our full passion and will, and if you can feel that, I cannot be more appreciated. (Response provided by Mr. Takuma Kawauchiya)


Meeting Recap: Kodō: The Beating Heart of Grand Seiko

Joseph Kirk, Brand Curator and National Training Manager, Grand Seiko Corporation of America
Akio Naito, Chairman and CEO of Grand Seiko Corporation of America
Takuma Kawauchiya, Product Development Department of Seiko Watch Corporation
November 2, 2020

Video recordings of lectures are available to members immediately (using your membership password), and to the general public with a two-month delay.

For the Horological Society of New York’s (HSNY) record-breaking virtual attendance for its November 2020 lecture, Joseph Kirk of Grand Seiko Corporation of America returned to present Grand Seiko’s Caliber 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 80 hours with Dual Impulse Escapement and the concept creation T0 Constant Force Tourbillon, along with Grand Seiko’s Akio Naito and Takuma Kawauchiya.

Kirk began the lecture with a brief history of Grand Seiko’s beginnings in 1960 and the evolution of their mechanical movements:

Caliber 3180: 18,000 beats per hour (bph) and the first watch in Japan to be tested chronometer compliant

Caliber 430: Evolution in practicality such as increased water resistance and quick set date

Caliber 5722A: This caliber stemmed from the 430

Caliber 5722B: Its rate was increased to 19,800 bph

Caliber 052: Two variants with differing beats per second (bps) were made - 10 bps (36,000 bph) and 20 bps (72,000 bph)

Caliber R-45: 10, 15 and 20 bps were ideal for performance competitions

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In 1968, Grand Seiko launched three 10-beat calibers:

Caliber 45GS - manually wound

Caliber 61GS - automatic 10-beat

Caliber 19GS - ladies hi-beat 36,000

The need for higher quality testing made use of the VFA “very fine adjusted” label, and was exemplified by the 45GS VFA, 61GS VFA and 19GS VFA calibers. In November 1988, a new era developed a new movement - the 9S series with the 9S55 caliber. The series range extended to the 9S5, 9S67, 9S85.

Before Kirk introduced Akio Naito, Chairman and CEO of Grand Seiko Corporation of America, he explained that 2020 happens to be Grand Seiko’s 60th Anniversary and in Japanese culture, reaching 60 is a very special celebration known as Kanreki. It is a completion of the full zodiac cycle and the event is symbolized by wearing a red color vest and hat. It was fitting that for Grand Seiko’s Kanreki, the logo is adorned with the red vest and hat.

Naito discussed the following in regards to the 60th Anniversary:

Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi opened this year that was designed by the renowned architect Kengo Kuma who is known for using natural materials. Fun fact: Kuma is also a fan of Grand Seiko.

The 9SA5 was the first caliber made in the new studio and is Grand Seiko’s finest caliber to date with its 36,000 hi-beat and 80-hour power reserve.

Kirk continued the lecture by further discussing Grand Seiko’s new movement and introduced Takuma Kawauchiya who designed the T0 constant force.

Hisashi Fujieda is the movement designer of the 9SA5 and three components within the movement make it special: the dual impulse escapement, the free sprung balance and the horizontal gear train.

Considering the T0 acronym: T is for torque, and the zero is for hours passed from a full wind of the mainspring. Along with the T0 focus on energy efficiency and precision, Kawauchiya talked about what inspired him to make the piece as well as producing a very unique ticking sound which has an exact 1/16th note.

HSNY thanks Joseph Kirk, Akio Naito and Takuma Kawauchiya for their fascinating lecture!

Submitted by Melody Benloss, Recording Secretary & Associate Librarian

Welcoming New HSNY Members, October 2020

 
 

HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day. 

  • Alarik Myrin, NY

  • Dirk Meyer, CA

  • Donald Spencer, CT

  • Eli Weldon, MA

  • Kevin Small, United Kingdom

  • Michael Green, WA

  • Nirav Seth, ME

  • Oliver l. Smith, AZ

  • Rob Nudds, Germany

  • Zev Barnett, NY

Upcoming Lecture: Kodō: The Beating Heart of Grand Seiko

Join HSNY on Monday, November 2, 2020 for a virtual lecture on Kodō, the beating heart of Grand Seiko, presented by Joseph Kirk, Brand Curator and National Training Manager, Grand Seiko Corporation of America. With special guests Akio Naito, Chairman and CEO of Grand Seiko Corporation of America, and Takuma Kawauchiya, Product Development Department of Seiko Watch Corporation.

Since its birth in 1960, Grand Seiko has been dedicated to perfecting the essentials of watchmaking. With the goal of making the ‘ideal watch’, Grand Seiko strives to attain the ultimate in accuracy, legibility, durability and beauty, and uses its resources and history of mechanical watchmaking to craft the best possible movements they can in quartz, their proprietary Spring Drive technology, and since the launch of the brand, finely adjusted, purely mechanical calibers.

Kodō is Japanese for heartbeat. This lecture will cover Grand Seiko’s philosophy in mechanical watchmaking, the frequencies used and the advances in the mechanisms themselves, such as the newly introduced 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 80 hours with Dual Impulse Escapement and the new T0 Constant Force Tourbillon with the world’s first fully integrated constant force tourbillon on the same axis. While Grand Seiko offers various movement types, it is the purely mechanical type that is the beating heart of Grand Seiko.

READ THE FULL STORY HERE!

Zoom Webinar to begin promptly at 7:00pm Eastern Time (US and Canada).
Webinar registration is required.

Meeting Recap: Ferdinand Berthoud: History and Modern Developments

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Switzerland
Vincent Lapaire, General Manager,
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Switzerland
October 5, 2020

October 5, 2020 - Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Switzerland Vincent Lapaire, General Manager, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Switzerland

For the October 2020 virtual presentation of the Horological Society of New York’s (HSNY) lecture series, the legacy of Ferdinand Berthoud shows how his watchmaking expertise influenced the world of horology. Berthoud created an impressive volume of works in the field of marine chronometers, decorative watches and clocks, specialist tools, scientific measuring instruments and the publishing of more than 4,000 pages of specialist articles and 120 engraved plates.

The lecture began with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s introduction on how he became aware of Berthoud and the steps Scheufele took to obtain the rights to the Ferdinand Berthoud name ― then Vincent Lapaire followed with a timeline of the watchmaker’s remarkable life:

1727 ― Born in Neuchatel, the youngest of five children

1741 ― Started an apprenticeship with his brother, Jean-Henri, at 14 years old

1745 ― At the age of 18, Berthoud moves to Paris to complete his training. It has to be noted that he arrived during the Age of Enlightenment (1715 - 1789). This moment is key when it comes to sharing knowledge.

1752 ― Submitted a memoir on a longcase equation regulator that exhibited leap year, solar time and mean time to the Royal Academy of Sciences

1753 ― Berthoud was granted the title of “Master Watchmaker” by the King’s Council

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1755 ― Wrote several reference articles in the Encyclopedie, Ou Dictionnaire Raisonne Des Sciences, Des Arts Et Des Metiers

1759 ― The Art of Operating and Adjusting Clocks and Watches [..] was Berthoud’s first specialist book (with many books to follow in the coming years)

1760 ― Establishing an accurate marine chronometer was paramount in solving the longitude problem. Therefore, Berthoud submitted a project to the Royal Academy of Science that illustrates the construction of a Marine Clock M.M. No. 1.

1762 ― John Harrison’s H4 “sea watch” was Britain’s submission for the quest of longitude

1763 ― Published the two-volume Essai sur L’Horlogerie

1764 ― Elected as a Foreign Member of the Royal Society

1764 - 1776 ― Berthoud presented a variety of Marine Clocks to the Royal Academy

1767 ― His most important accomplishment stemmed from Marine Clock No. 6 and No. 8. They were weight-driven, balanced with the temperature compensated gradient device, and a balance wheel with movable masses that allows to modify the moment of inertia and both clocks were tested on a 12-month voyage from Rochefort to Santo Domingo in 1768.

1770 ― Awarded the prestigious position of “Watchmaker - Mechanic to the King and the Navy”

1773 ― Published the Treatise on Maine Chronometers. One particular aspect about Berthoud was that he shared his watchmaking knowledge. At the time, many watchmakers rarely shared what they knew.

1777 ― Developed smaller timekeepers such as the Marine Clock M.M.No. 6

1802 ― The History of Time Measurement by Clocks became Berthoud’s most important work. His book became the reference for Swiss watchmaking school until the 1950s

1807 ― At 80 years old, Berthoud passed away in Groslay, France

The lecture was finalized by the Ferdinand Berthoud brand showing their new timepiece Chronomètre FB 2RE to commemorate Berthoud’s 250th anniversary when he became the Clockmaker - Mechanic to the King and Navy. The new piece was inspired by Berthoud’s Marine Clock No. 6 with the enamel dial, new mechanical movement Caliber FB-RE.FC — it brings together the fusee-and-chain constant force transmission with the one-second remontoir d'egalité amongst other factors.

HSNY thanks Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Vincent Lapaire for their fascinating lecture!

Submitted by Melody Benloss, Recording Secretary & Associate Librarian

Welcoming New HSNY Members, September 2020

HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day. 

  • Aaron Blase, MI

  • Andrew Mancini, NY

  • Anthony Cipparone, VA

  • Chris Webber, CA

  • Curtis Brown, FL

  • Daniel Moses, NC

  • Dennis A. Roach, CA

  • Diego Brian Gosis, FL

  • Hans-Joerg Riwar, Switzerland

  • Ian Sunderland, Canada

  • Ivan Huang, Singapore

  • James Steele, IL

  • Maegan Spencer, CA

  • Melissa Scoppa, CA

  • Mitchell Katz, CT

  • Scott Lawrence, MI

  • Tory McCarty, CT

Upcoming Lecture: Ferdinand Berthoud: History and Modern Developments

Join HSNY on Monday, October 5, 2020 for a virtual lecture on the history and modern developments of Ferdinand Berthoud, presented by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and Vincent Lapaire, General Manager of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Switzerland.

An exceptional horologist, Ferdinand Berthoud left behind a work of immense scope in the fields of marine chronometers, decorative watches and clocks, specialist tools, and scientific measuring instruments. In addition, Berthoud authored many books on horology, comprising over 4,000 pages with engraved plates.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud draws inspiration from the remarkable heritage of the Swiss master watchmaker while giving his work a contemporary twist. Celebrating the 250th anniversary of the accession in 1770 of Ferdinand Berthoud to title of "Clockmaker and Mechanic by appointment to the French King and Navy", Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud recently unveiled a new collection of watches - the Chronomètre FB 2RE. At the October 2020 lecture of the Horological Society of New York, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Vincent Lapaire will discuss the history of this pioneer of marine chronometry, and explain in detail the innovation seen in the new Chronomètre FB 2RE.

READ THE FULL STORY HERE!

Zoom Webinar to begin promptly at 1:00pm Eastern Time (US and Canada).
Webinar registration is required.

Meeting Recap: Collecting Watches in the Time of COVID-19

Eric Ku, Vintage Watch Expert, San Francisco, California
September 9, 2020

September 9, 2020 Eric Ku, Vintage Watch Expert, San Francisco, California

For the first time in the history of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), the September 2020 lecture was broadcast via Zoom to more than 400 participants hailing from the continents of Africa, Asia, Australia, Europe, North America and South America. As the title shows — “Collecting Watches in the Time of COVID-19” — the watch industry is going through a challenging phase.

Vintage watch expert Eric Ku displayed the breakdown of sales from March 2020 to the present and how COVID-19 has affected watch brands such as Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Rolex. The pandemic has also touched upon authorized dealers (ADs), the grey market, and the auction houses of Sotheby’s, Phillips, Christie’s and Antiquorum.

Of the trends resulting from the pandemic, Ku gave the following summary:

  • Bored people sitting at home = a lot of watch sales online

  • Sellers have been adapting to the “new norm” and have been re-tooling strategies to cater to the needs of their customers

  • Finding good watches to sell is not easy for auction houses, authorized dealers and grey market dealers. Restricted supply during this period has further exacerbated demand for watches which is already strong

  • Everyone is still waiting for their Aquanauts, Nautilus, Daytona, GMT or Submariner

  • People looking for that great “COVID Deal” have been sorely disappointed

To conclude the lecture, Ku gave his thoughts on collecting tips and observing the market. A few gems that were mentioned were “The changes brought to the watch market by COVID are 99% on the seller’s side and only 1% on the buyer’s side and “There’s no such thing as a good deal. You get what you pay for.”

When it came to Q&A, there were 38 questions on the Zoom queue and Ku got around to answering 15 of them before the lecture had to come to a close. HSNY followed up with Ku to answer a few more on the Society’s Instagram.

HSNY thanks Eric Ku for joining the lecture from San Francisco and for hosting the first virtual lecture in HSNY history!

Tag us @horologicalsocietyofny for a chance to be featured on social!

Tag us @horologicalsocietyofny for a chance to be featured on social!

Submitted by Melody Benloss, Recording Secretary & Associate Librarian

HSNY Welcomes Jaquet Droz as a Sponsor

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New York City - September 14, 2020

The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) announces Swiss watchmaker Jaquet Droz has joined as a sponsor. Jaquet Droz was founded in 1738, and today manufactures timepieces of the highest caliber. Through sponsorship, Jaquet Droz joins America’s oldest watchmaking guild in its mission to advance the art and science of horology through education.

Support from Jaquet Droz comes during a time of change, as HSNY adapts to the new normal of virtual classes and online lectures. The sponsorship will allow HSNY to expand and enhance its educational platforms while allowing them to be more widely accessible to enthusiasts and members worldwide.

“We have a lot of respect and are inspired by the work HSNY has been doing during all these years,” said Jaquet Droz CEO Christian Lattmann. “Jaquet Droz is honored to be now sponsoring this mission of education. It is very important for us to share our philosophy as Jaquet Droz has a unique position in high watchmaking, having created the most amazing Automaton in the past and continuing this craft through new works, like the famous Charming Bird, or the Loving Butterfly.”

A master of grand complications fit for (and purchased by) royalty, Jaquet Droz’s horological marvels are known for capturing the beauty of nature, flawlessly merging art and mechanics.

“Jaquet Droz timepieces, such as their Charming Bird, showcase the history of horology with ingenuities like vibrant automata and song packed into mere millimeters,” said HSNY Executive Director Nicholas Manousos. “The result: works of art that tell time in more ways than one. We are honored to have Jaquet Droz join HSNY as a sponsor.”

About Jaquet Droz

Since it was first established in 1738, Jaquet Droz has perpetuated the spirit of innovation and aesthetic refinement of its founder, Pierre Jaquet-Droz. One of the first watchmakers to set up a workshop in Geneva, along with his son, Henri-Louis, this ingenious inventor and man of uncommon vision conquered the royal courts of Europe and China with his stunning creations: fabulous humanoid automata and precious musical watches. Expressing the values of the Age of Enlightenment, this elegant and well-traveled philosophy still forms the core of our identity. Jaquet Droz timepieces have always combined design, materials and expertise with the most unexpected mechanical refinements. Complications of surpassing sophistication are juxtaposed with the purity of enamel or the luster of pearls and precious stones, while made-to-order dials showcase magnificent minerals and finely worked decorations. The manufacture’s exclusive spirit remains intact after nearly three centuries, as attested by its ultra-select collections and its Numerus Clausus limited editions. At Jaquet Droz, we remain true to our time-honored goal, namely, to push back the limits of the art of astonishment.

Official website: https://www.jaquet-droz.com

About the Horological Society of New York

Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Today, HSNY is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education. Members are a diverse mix of watchmakers, clockmakers, executives, journalists, auctioneers, historians, salespeople and collectors, reflecting the rich nature of horology in New York City.

Official website: http://hs-ny.org

Welcoming New HSNY Members, July & August 2020

HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day. 

  • Brad Urani, CA

  • Brinton Miller, Washington, D.C.

  • Christian Bangert, CT

  • Colin Potts, Canada

  • Danny Goldsmith, NY

  • Faridah Tha Zin Ko, Malaysia 

  • Gabriel Reilly, CA

  • James Huff, TX

  • Jason Osbourne, NY

  • Jonathan F. Royston, NC

  • Lucas Tortella, PA

  • Mark Gallistel, WI

  • Michael Loya, NY

  • Nesbit's Fine Watch Service, WA

  • Thiago Takahashi, NJ

HSNY Lectures Resume Virtually

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If this were any other year, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) would be returning from summer break to a sold-out September lecture at The General Society Library. Alas, COVID-19 has changed many aspects of life but some deep-rooted traditions are too tough to break. 

Since 1866, HSNY has met monthly for lectures spanning technical, historical, collecting, business and cultural topics for horological enthusiasts to enjoy. 

To meet today’s demands, HSNY announces it will be hosting monthly lectures virtually for the foreseeable future. HSNY lectures will be streamed live via Zoom Webinars, with no in-person gatherings. Registration will be required but all lectures will remain free and open to the public. 

“Our monthly lectures are becoming increasingly popular,” said HSNY’s Executive Director Nicholas Manousos. “Offering lectures and other events virtually allows us to preserve the health of our members, host lecturers from abroad, and expand attendance capabilities previously limited by venue capacity.”

Recorded lecture videos will be available to members immediately, and to the general public with a two-month delay on HSNY’s YouTube channel. To learn about membership and additional benefits, please click here.

Upcoming Lecture: Collecting Watches in the Time of COVID-19

Join HSNY on Wednesday, September 9, 2020 for a virtual lecture on collecting watches in the time of COVID-19, presented by Eric Ku, Vintage Watch Expert, San Francisco, California.

Over the course of the last six months, our way of life as we knew it has completely changed. As COVID-19 impacts the world, international travel has ground to a halt, millions have lost their jobs, and we are still facing more uncertainty as there is no timeframe for when things will, if ever, “get back to normal”. Despite all this, interest in watches has never been stronger — waiting lists at authorized dealers are longer than they have ever been, and interest in watch auctions has propelled prices further into the stratosphere. As we adjust to life in the age of “no contact”, what stays the same and what changes? Is now the right time to buy, or the right time to sell? At the September 2020 meeting of the Horological Society of New York, Eric Ku will discuss how to navigate the waters of watch collecting in the time of COVID-19.

READ THE FULL STORY HERE!

Zoom Webinar to begin promptly at 7:00pm Eastern Time (US and Canada).
Webinar registration is required.

Recap: HSNY Awards $155,000 in Financial Aid (2020)

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It has been a turbulent few months to say the least but thanks to the support of our sponsors, benefactors, members and the horological community, HSNY is proud to report that it has awarded $155,000 in financial assistance to watchmaking students, schools and professionals to-date in 2020.

In April 2020, HSNY launched the Working Watchmakers Grant to assist industry professionals directly during the COVID-19 pandemic. HSNY issued checks for $1,000 to 100 watchmakers and clockmakers across 31 states, totaling $100,000.

Despite the cancellation of the HSNY 2020 Gala & Charity Auction, America's oldest watchmaking guild pushed forward and awarded the Henry B. Fried Scholarship to six watchmaking students. Established in 2017, the Henry B. Fried Scholarship aims to help watchmaking students succeed in every way by helping to cover the cost of watchmaking tools and living expenses while attending a full-time watchmaking school.

New in 2020, the Howard Robbins Award was established as a grant for watchmaking schools in the United States. Howard Robbins (1950-2020) was a professional in the world of timepieces for nearly 40 years and recently passed away in March 2020. This award is intended to foster Robbins’ professional rigor, love of people and belief in education within the watchmaking community. The 2020 recipients of the Howard Robbins Award are the Veterans Watchmaker Initiative in Delaware ($15,000), the only technical school devoted to disabled veterans in the U.S., and Paris Junior College’s Texas Institute of Jewelry Technology in Texas ($10,000), established in 1942 to provide industry job training.

Welcoming New HSNY Members, June 2020

HSNY would like to welcome the following new members. It is only with our members' support that we are able to continue flourishing as America's oldest watchmaking guild and advancing the art and science of horology every day. 

  • Aaron T. Davis, NY

  • Alexander Kharaz, NY

  • Andres Sanchez, NY

  • Asher Rapkin, CA

  • Bob Gallimore, KS

  • Christopher J. Alvarado, NY

  • Cole Bryson, NY

  • Craig Dean, FL

  • David Turner, CA

  • Eric Jetter, NJ

  • Hamza Masood, WA

  • James Angiola, MD

  • James B. Gray, NY

  • Jason Wu, CA

  • Jeffrey S. Lane, NC

  • John Murabito, PA

  • John Renzi, CA

  • Johnathan Epps, NY

  • Jonathan Collins, CT

  • Kavin Kulamavalavan, MA

  • Logan McInerney, WA

  • Paula Amato, OR

  • Randy Schoelkopf, WA

  • Raun Olson, CA

  • Richard F. Driscoll, FL

  • Richesh Shah, NY

  • Ronald Knecht, NJ

  • Sean C. Kelly, WI

  • Shaun Oriold, Canada

  • Todd Levin, NY

  • Udaya Kumar Kakarla, AZ

  • Vamsi Nadimpalli, IL

  • William Buchalter, FL

  • Xavier Marti, MD

Aldis Hodge Appointed Trustee of the Horological Society of New York

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The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) announces the appointment of actor and horological designer Aldis Hodge as its newest Trustee. Hodge is an award-winning actor, famous for his roles in movies such as “The Invisible Man”, “Clemency”, “Hidden Figures”, and “Straight Outta Compton”. In addition, Hodge is an accomplished horologist who serves on the academy of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Hodge joins the decision-making branch of America’s oldest watchmaking guild in the midst of a powerful time of change. The Society’s ten Trustees play an important role in the operation of the organization, as they are responsible for ensuring that it continues to uphold the interests of the public.

In addition, Nicholas Manousos (formerly HSNY President) succeeds Edwin Hydeman as Executive Director. Manousos also serves on the Academy of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève and is the Technical Editor for HODINKEE. John Teifert, Technical Manager for LVMH Watches & Jewelry, assumes the role of President and John Davis, Director of Service Operations, Rolex Watch USA, assumes the role of Vice President. Teifert and Davis succeed in their roles as Vice President and Trustee, respectively.

Founded in 1866, HSNY has navigated through world wars, depressions and pandemics, while always maintaining its mission to advance the art and science of horology. As New York City begins to re-open, HSNY’s team is focused on making a positive contribution to horology through its educational and philanthropic programs. To date in 2020, HSNY has awarded $155,000 in financial assistance to watchmaking students, schools and professionals.

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“The challenges we face in this tumultuous year have accelerated change across all aspects of the watchmaking industry,” said Nicholas Manousos, HSNY’s Executive Director. “I am looking forward to meeting those challenges head-on with HSNY’s team.”

“It is an honor and a privilege to join the prestigious Board of Trustees for such an impactful organization,” said Aldis Hodge. “It is my hope that, in my time at HSNY, I will be able to be an asset in advancing and enhancing the appreciation, education and love of horology around the world.”

HSNY Raises $30,000 Through Matching Donation Program

Bidding at the Horological Society of New York’s 2019 Gala & Charity Auction. Photo credit Monica Schipper.

Bidding at the Horological Society of New York’s 2019 Gala & Charity Auction. Photo credit Monica Schipper.

With the support of its sponsors, benefactors and donors, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is pleased to announce that it has fulfilled its Matching Donation Program campaign goal, raising $30,000 to advance the art and science of horology.

With the cancellation of HSNY’s 2020 Gala & Charity Auction, the Society lost more than $40,000 in revenue, not including proceeds from its most highly anticipated auction lot items to date. All proceeds from HSNY’s biggest night of the year assist the nonprofit organization in funding its multiple financial aid initiatives, including the Henry B. Fried Scholarship for Watchmaking Students and the Howard Robbins Award for Watchmaking Schools.

In June, two benefactors made a joint donation of $10,000 and pledged to match future donations dollar to dollar up to $10,000 until the end of the month. In just one week, two HSNY sponsors, Grand Seiko and Vacheron Constantin, and 23 individual donors made HSNY’s Matching Donation Program goal a reality. Grand Seiko and Vacheron Constantin have been HSNY sponsors since January 2019 and October 2019 respectively, supporting America’s oldest watchmaking guild in its endeavor to continue upholding the interests of the horological community.

Spring Drive: A True Expression of Nature and Time, by Joseph Kirk.

Born in 1960 and launched internationally in 2010, Grand Seiko has long had a loyal following in Japan - and now worldwide - and is one of few fully integrated watchmakers in the world, with complete in-house capabilities in every area of watchmaking, from the development of component materials through design and manufacture to assembly and adjustment. Grand Seiko’s June 2019 lecture at HSNY, titled “Spring Drive: A True Expression of Nature and Time”, was given by Brand Curator and National Trainer for Grand Seiko Corporation of America Joseph Kirk and featured special guests Kazunori Hoshino, Seiko Epson manufacturer, (Shiojiri, Nagano Prefecture, Japan) and Akio Naito, Deputy Chief Operating Officer at Seiko Watch Corporation. 

Founded in 1755 in Geneva, Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watchmaking manufacturers in the world, with 262 years of uninterrupted activity. The men and women of Vacheron Constantin continue to design, develop and produce exceptional timekeepers, remaining close to the three fundamentals of the Maison: perfectly precise methods, harmonious and inspired aesthetics and the highest level of finishing touches. One of HSNY’s newest sponsors, Vacheron Constantin is currently planning a special project with the Society slated for 2021. 

HSNY sponsors Grand Seiko and Vacheron Constantin helped make the Matching Donation Program goal a reality.

HSNY sponsors Grand Seiko and Vacheron Constantin helped make the Matching Donation Program goal a reality.

“The importance of horology has only grown during HSNY’s existence and yet is often misunderstood or taken for granted,” said one of the anonymous benefactors. “Just imagine not knowing the time for more than a couple of days. Time and time keeping are among the most universal languages and the Horological Society of New York has a prominent place in furthering its understanding and advancement. I encourage other like-minded people to join us in supporting HSNY.”

HSNY wishes to thank the benefactors, sponsors and donors who helped make the Matching Donation Program a reality and a success. All donations directly aid HSNY’s mission of Advancing the Art and Science of Horology. All donations are tax-deductible. The Horological Society of New York is a registered 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization, federal tax identification number 13-6139887. To donate, please visit https://hs-ny.org/donate

HSNY Introduces a Matching Donation Program (Through June 30)

The Society that has been there for watchmakers since 1866 has introduced a Matching Donation Program to keep horology running on schedule. 

In May, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) made the difficult decision to cancel its 2020 Gala & Charity Auction set for August 5th due to the ongoing uncertainty surrounding the coronavirus pandemic. Gala tables were sold out, menu items had been finalized, and table decorations were ordered for what would have been HSNY’s 154th celebration.

HSNY quickly refunded all attendees, totaling $40,000 in ticket sales, and will now be unable to receive any proceeds from the charity auction for 2020 following its cancellation. (HSNY raised more than $45,000 from last year’s charity auction alone and this year’s lot proceeds were projected to top those of 2019.)

In addition to celebrating with members and friends, the Gala & Charity Auction was an opportunity for America’s oldest watchmaking guild to generate funds to pay expenses, cover daily operation costs and fund multiple financial aid initiatives for watchmakers, watchmaking schools and students.

Immediately following news of the Gala & Charity Auction cancellation, two very generous donors made a joint donation of $10,000 and are now pledging to match any future donations dollar to dollar up to $10,000. This new matching donation program will run until June 30, 2020, and will greatly assist HSNY in mitigating the cancellation of its 2020 Gala & Charity Auction. 

If you are able, please consider supporting HSNY by donating your Gala ticket cost or any amount you are comfortable with. No donation is too small. Together, we can make a positive contribution to horology.

All donations to HSNY are tax-deductible. HSNY is a registered 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization, federal tax identification number 13-6139887.